Here's why Prince William needs a makeover, writes Stephen Doig. Photo / Getty Images
OPINION:
First, a disclaimer. I am not, for one moment suggesting our future king is in need of a morning television-style makeover.
I'm not lobbying for some position as a men's style Gok Wan, trussing up your average Dave from Didcot (or William of Norfolk) in a skort and four-figure trainers, nor do these pages "drag" (to coin a term from social media) anyone about how they choose to dress. But Prince William has become more visible since restrictions eased (remember those halcyon days?) and is taking up more of the royal spotlight now that he's more or less flying solo without his brother. Which led to some musings about his sense of style, and where he might evolve it as he steps up to the royal commemorative plate.
The Duchess of Cambridge is the star attraction on this front, clearly, and Prince William's happy to let his wife shine while taking a discreet and appropriate approach to how he dresses. It's just that a great deal of the time, his approach is extremely safe and - dare I say - a little ageing. He's only 39, but the nothing-to-see-here suits, classic sweaters and nondescript chinos could also belong to a man in his twilight years. There's a standard issue, don't-frighten-the-horses approach to dressing that's relatable for a lot of men - to wear something noteworthy is to attract attention and, god forbid, look expressive and individual, and those are notions many men shy away from.
Perhaps it's a shrewd and deliberate move; the Duke of Cambridge has grown up with the glare of spotlight, so diminishing attention in any way possible is likely tactical. It's not because he's lacking in education in this department; his father is one of the best-dressed men on the planet, and his grandfather before him took an interest in looking pin-sharp (but never at the expense of looking as if the clothes were wearing him).
Where Prince Charles will wear a handsome Prince of Wales checked suit with the full roster of gleaming accessories - a glossy tie, pocket square, cufflinks and lapel pin - Prince William takes a more low key approach, favouring just a tie and a suit in a plain cloth (nothing wrong with that of course, it just doesn't have the grandeur and sense of occasion that a bolder suit can have).
There's a wonderful photograph of the Duke of Edinburgh, taken in 1951, holding his two eldest children as toddlers alongside the Queen, wearing a double-breasted suit and pocket square in grey flannel with such ease and elan; it's a hard act to follow for William. Certainly, his wife takes an enormous interest in fashion and it's rumoured that her stylist Natasha Archer also quietly supplies Prince William's wardrobe. So the clothes are there.
This isn't to say that the prince doesn't enjoy dressing up from time to time, because he has in the past made some bold style choices. There's his excellent, and very ritzy, patent leather evening slippers, courtesy of peerless British brand Arthur Sleep, where each shoe is handcrafted in the UK. Oddly, eveningwear is where the Duke of Cambridge excels in his wardrobe, which is an area most men are reticent about - the plush green velvet blazer he's worn on at least two occasions, most recently at the Earthshot Awards in October. He also donned velvet, this time in glossy black, for the No Time To Die premiere.
He's also built up a stellar roster of off-duty pieces, thanks to his penchant for Luca Faloni clothing. The independent Italian brand, which is crafted by artisans in Turin, is known for its elegant cashmere polo sweaters and soft linen shirts, which the prince has worn in 2020's official Christmas card and on royal tours abroad. All of which look pin-sharp.
So how would we tweak his style formula? By adding a touch more personality, in the manner of his father. I don't mean a bells and whistles display of showmanship, or Prince William stalking through Windsor Great Park in a catwalk-fresh look from Balenciaga, but clothing that strays even just a little from the path familiar. A standard black or navy suit is all well and fine, but there's a world of tailoring out there; tweeds, checks, houndstooth patterns, for example, and many of them made at British mills. Adding a few considered accessories beyond a safe old tie would be a way to pep things up too - a bold pocket square, or a richly patterned scarf. This isn't about fashion, but style; those are two very different things and men veer towards the latter.
Likewise, in his off-duty time, the prince could venture into territory that's more befitting of his age; a bomber jacket, for example, instead of his ubiquitous Barbour or black coat, and some boots that are a tad smarter than the dusty Clark's pair he's eternally fond of. Because taking a pleasure in how you dress, or developing a curiosity about clothes and how they go together, wouldn't make him any less serious or regal. If anything, it could help act as armour in the ongoing glare of public life. His brother's scruffy polos and bushy beard, we shall tackle another time.