O'Connell Street Bistro

By JOHN GARDNER for canvas

The dizziest reaches of culinary ambition, according to some food writing which blends the steamy voluptuousness of pornography with deconstructionist rigour, now lie in high art.

Foams of pine nuts, asparagus and mushrooms, seawater mousse, potato cappuccino and foie-gras sorbet. This is all very well but most of us, most of the time, still want something that resembles a meal.

With this prejudice in mind it was cheering to see some classics at O'Connell Street Bistro. Dauphinoise potatoes, decent portions of meat simply cooked.

We are not, of course, talking about a retreat to the domestic meat and two veg here. The dauphinoise incorporates goat feta, the mash has chorizo, the snapper is ornamented with a green pea puree - the touches that justify going out on a rainy night rather than flinging the steak on the grill yourself.

And the quality of produce is a bit better than the local supermarket. Sirloin is not top choice in our household, but here it was exquisite and elegantly complemented by the dauphinoise and a red pepper relish ($29.50). I wondered if the mushroom ragout and chorizo mash with my lamb loin ($32.50) might be a bit overpowering, but it harmonised with the slightly charred flavour of the outside of the lamb which was, needless to say, deliciously pink at heart. The broccolini probably didn't need the dressing, which was, perhaps, one flavour too many in the context of the whole.

I was a bit over-lambed, having started with sweetbreads on a brioche ($16.50), which also featured mushrooms in a jus with caramelised onions, but it was so good I forgave myself. Our other first course was simply but perfectly pan-fried snapper ($16.50), an unusual choice in an area where tuna is the most common option, and this was one of the most visually appealing dishes, with a halo of green pea puree, soused leeks and curly endive.

I normally brag about not having dessert, but here our shared choice showed how talent can shine in a section of the menu too often neglected. The texture of the praline and almond parfait ($10.50) combined creaminess and crunch, the mint-dressed citrus salad gave a biting grace-note, and the honey balanced that acidity.

We did not do justice to the spectacular wine-list, but the wine by the glass choices gave us perfectly decent Huia pinot noir ($13) and Kumeu River pinot gris, ($10) to mention a couple.

This is a venue which has one of the more intimate atmospheres in the evening, but on this occasion there were two large groups more reminiscent of the business-lunch crowd. But the unruffled service remained thoroughly professional, contributing to what continues to be one of Auckland's more gratifying restaurant experiences.

Cost: Meal for two, including wine. No coffee. $178.

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