O'Connell Street Bistro, Auckland City

By EWAN McDONALD for viva

Chefs. They think it's all about them, you know. They get the TV shows, they get the coffee-table cookbooks, they get the names on the menu and, if they want it enough, above the door.

But there are many other professionals whose expertise goes to making a fine restaurant, which is why it's good to see that the Lewisham Foundation Awards, the Restaurant Association's annual Oscars (their word) for the Auckland hospitality industry, recognise categories such as Outstanding Waiter, Maitre d', Best Ambience and Style, Outstanding Doorperson, Supplier.

O'Connell Street Bistro, the subject of today's column, has two nominations: Chris Upton for Restaurateur of the Year (here and down the road at Prime) and Josh Pocock for Outstanding Sommelier. Which is only fitting when you consider that this refined little eatery and cellar is the only restaurant in Auckland to have been presented with an Award of Excellence by the noted New York wine magazine Wine Spectator, and has been so honoured for the past four years running.

On those grounds you might expect O'Connell Street to be gonged by the Lewisham gang for Outstanding Wine List, too. But they won last year and according to paragraph 8 clause b subsection ii you can't be nominated if you've won in the previous go-round, a local rule which obviously doesn't apply to the New York deed of gift.

At this point I should disclose that the nominee, Josh, and I have a deep personal relationship. This may surprise those who think that columnists and restaurant staff should be at arm's length, and it may surprise Josh, for we've never met. Well, been introduced. But we've spoken a number of times.

Every time I've rung O'Connell Street recently he's answered politely, "O'Connell Street, Josh speaking" and then let me down in an ever-so-sincere way, "I'm terribly sorry, sir, we're fully booked that night," and I can tell that he has very nice manners, has been very well brought up and is no doubt a credit to his mother.

Guess he is well practised at it. After all, when one of the city's top five restaurants has only 12 tables they have to disappoint 1.4 million minus (12 x 4) = I don't know how many people every night.

However, Ann managed to reserve a table on Friday night, which pleased her greatly. She adores their little bread rolls. She says a good restaurant always serves great bread. I think this is a good theory but am convinced that one needs to check out their entrees, mains, desserts and preferably a round or two of cheese and a port or coffee before making a considered judgment.

It was the table that they reserved for us that was unfortunate. Those who share mild claustrophobia should ask not to dine at Table 1, where one will face a solid grey wall and not one's partner, and one's partner will face another grey wall with a small but, like everything else here, no doubt refined artwork.

There comes a time when a restaurant is about the food, and the chef. Stephen Ward trained in New Zealand and did his OE at Terence Conran's Bluebird restaurant in London. Ward joined the bistro in November 2000 and favours just a few uncluttered tastes in his classically influenced dishes, using quality, seasonal ingredients, presented in a contemporary style. It might sound an odd word to use for food, but - like most of the business-background clientele - it's discreet.

His specials that night: Roast fig. Tomato. Prosciutto. Salad greens. Balsamic. Could there be a simpler, more exquisite combination? Slowly, gently, expertly cooked confit of duck - yes, it is soooo last week, but when it's mentioned in close proximity to the phrase "sweet onion and parmesan risotto with rocket" ...

Pocock, who developed the wine list and has been a finalist in previous Sommelier awards, matched the fig salad with a gorgeous, aromatic William Hill Pinot Gris 2003. For the duck he also went to Central Otago and pulled out Waitiri Creek Pinot Noir 2002, to complement the flavours mentioned earlier and the Asian tastes of the menu version, a crispy breast with cardamom-infused sweet potato mash, steamed greens and a sour cherry salsa.

Haven't had a creme brulee since they went out of fashion but couldn't resist the idea of the custard spiked with thick, fleshy blood-orange marmalade and manuka honey tuilles, giving a taste of Kiwi to a European classic.

Which is very much what O'Connell Street Bistro is all about. It is one of the city's best. The staff were excellent, the wine remarkable, the food superb but the experience just a little less enthralling than previous visits. Maybe it was that user-unfriendly Table 1.

Open: Lunch Tues-Fri noon to 3pm, dinner Mon-Sat from 6pm

Owner: Chris Upton

Restaurant manager: Josh Pocock

Head chef: Stephen Ward

Food: NZ contemporary

On the menu:Veal sweetbreads, coated with parmesan and brioche crumb, with lambs lettuce and tomato essence $17; Chargrilled Cambrian lamb loin with caramelised onion/potato souffle, watercress and salsa verde $33; Seared South Island salmon with a salad of chargrilled peppers and peanuts, lime emulsion $27.50; Hazelnut tiramisu parfait with creme fraiche ice cream $11.50

Wine: NY, NY Wine Spectator award of excellence for the past four years - good enough for you?

Smoking: Cigars in the bar, gentlemen?

Noise: Sophisticated tinkling in the bar

Disabled access / toilets: Street entry; tricky doors, narrow hallways

Parking: Beat the stress, take a cab

Bottom line: Stephen Ward favours a few, uncluttered tastes in his classically influenced dishes, using quality, seasonal ingredients, presented in a contemporary style. Josh Pocock has been honoured internationally for his wine list and locally for his sommelier skills. O'Connell St Bistro remains a refined dining-room and cellar, classic European style with a taste of Kiwi.

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