Non Solo Pizza, Parnell

By ELEANOR BLACK for canvas

There is something hugely comforting about Non Solo Pizza, baby brother to the more upmarket Toto in Nelson St. For one thing, the Parnell restaurant is blessedly devoid of the pretentiousness which can sour a night out in Auckland. For another, there is room to breathe, the decor is uncomplicated and the dress code elastic, if the other diners are anything to go by.

Most importantly, the food is always good - although planning a meal can take some time as the menu is hefty. After much consideration, Tim went with the Parmigiana entree ($18.50), a tasty serve of pan-fried eggplant with tomato, basil and bocconcini covered in tomato sauce and Parmesan. His choice - uncomplicated, light and moreish - incited jealousy, although my calamari fritti ($17.50) was gorgeously fresh, coated in crunchy (not oily) batter and served simply with lemon wedges and sea salt. My mistake was eating almost all of it, and significantly denting my appetite.

I also filled up on wine, my share of a bottle of Gambellara Classico "Il Giangio" 2001 ($42.50), selected by our first-rate waiter. Heavier than a sauvignon blanc, but lighter than oaked chardonnay, it was the perfect accompaniment.

My entree-sized gnocchi alla Napolitana ($16.50) was not so interesting. The potato pasta was too soft (not dense and chewy, as I like) and the accompanying tomato and meat ragout, heaped in melted bocconcini, lacked the necessary punch. My struggle with the salt grinder at our table did little to improve it.

Tim's ravioli di pollo ($21.50) was the evening's standout dish - chicken and spinach-filled homemade ravioli squares and topped with tomato, thyme, sage, basil and shaved parmesan. Again, simple food done well.

Intrigued by the side dishes, or contorni, which had a menu of their own, we chose three to share ($14.50). While too small to be good value, they were fun: meatballs with pinenuts, cheese-stuffed baked zucchini, and cold eggplant with tomato.

Ready for a sweet something-or-other, we had to weigh up our greed against the increasingly annoying antics of nearby diners. We were surrounded by three large parties of shriekers and obnoxiously loud storytellers. One man enlivened his delivery with car-engine noises, much to the amusement of his friends and the detriment of our conversation.

I raced through my gelati and sorbetti ($10.50), comforted by the cool sweetness after a rich meal, and Tim chose the torta di limone ($10.50), a bare-bones tart with an unexpected (but welcome) caramelised top and whipped cream on the side.

A tip: take care when asking for water to accompany the meal. We ended up paying $9 for imported bottled stuff when tap would have done.

Cost: $161 for two entrees, two mains, side dish, two desserts, bottled water and wine.

* Read more about what's happening in the world of food, wine, party places and entertainment in canvas magazine, part of your Weekend Herald print edition.