Non Solo Pizza, Parnell

Spinach risotto is a treat among the traditional fare at Non Solo Pizza. Picture / Babiche Martens

Herald rating: * * * 1/2

Caught up with Niece #4 across the ditch. "You've got to try Melbourne's national dish," she said, "and I know where to find the best in town." At Sarah's local we found a quiet spot between the Led Zep covers band and Kylie karaoke bar and ordered chicken Parma.

"They say it's Italian," she laughed across a mountain of crumbed chicken, ham, tomato sauce and cheese, chips and lettuce, "but I've never seen it in Italy."

Almost right. About 400 years ago the Bolognese served veal parmigiana, crumbed veal cutlet with Parma ham and cheese. In Parma they crumbed and deep-fried the veal, no cheese, no ham, no tomatoes, same name.

Italian emigrants couldn't find the right cut or quite remember the recipe so they re-invented it with the nearest local equivalents.

Here in New Zealand the early restaurateurs' need to mix and make do re-shaped many heritage recipes (ever eaten spag' bol in Bologna?) and ultimately the perception of whole cuisines (Chinese and Indian, as well as Italian, spring to mind).

For the most part, Italian cooking depends on great ingredients simply cooked.

Happily, our generation of chefs can source Roma tomatoes, genuine oils, fresh and dry pasta. Cheeses: gorgonzola, mozzarella, taleggio. And the wines, from amarone to verdicchio.

The discriminating diner - a club of which Dick and I like to consider ourselves members - can expect to find a reasonable approximation of a night in Florence or Pisa or Arrezzo on an evening in Auckland. This winter, there have been one or two in Venice, too.

Non Solo Pizza is one trattoria we favour. Born 10 years ago as Toto's little brother (Antonio Crisci retains his interest though he has sold Toto), it has grown into its courtyard, into its big, buzzy, dining-room, into its own style. There are tablecloths, white. Waiters are fast and helpful.

The food is classic Italian with tweaks that sometimes threaten to excite. The eye fillet's partners are potato, thyme and red onion cake, enlivened by mustard pannacotta and beetroot chutney; the chicken thighs are rolled with thyme and garlic and served on taleggio polenta. Five years ago you couldn't find creamy, nutty-tasting taleggio cheese on this side of the Tasman.

Respect for tradition, embrace of the new. The wood-fired pizza menu is divided into "classiche" and "nuova gusto"; pasta dishes into dried and fresh. Dick considered himself blessed to hear that the kitchen had chosen to dress his favoured pappardelle, parmesan and truffle oil with a rich, meaty rabbit braise that night. Risotto beckoned me; all the more when I saw that the evening's special shone with garish, gorgeous, green spinach.

Until a couple of years ago you would rarely have found the real veal, unless you were fortunate enough to locate a speciality butcher. Italian restaurants used the name for traditional dishes but, like that chicken Parma and spag' bol, it wasn't like Nonna used to bake.

We chose the simple and homely medallions, crumbed, pan-fried, with a truffle-

oil mash that warmed the belly and comforted the soul.

Wine? Oh, that was why we were there. I'd bet Dick that the Azzurri would win the World Cup and he had to pay up. He threatened Asti Spumante but, from a list bridging the Old and New Worlds, nobly obliged with Pasqua Amarone 01, the dry red blend from the Veneto.

It was like Non Solo Pizza: hearty, reliable, accessible. Nothing much wrong with a restaurant when you can say that about it.

Address: 259 Parnell Rd, ph 379 5358
Open: Mon-Fri 12pm-late, weekends 11am-late
Cuisine: Italian
From the menu: Prawns lightly battered with lemon mayonnaise $22.50; Eye fillet with potato, thyme red onion cake, mustard pannacotta, beetroot chutney $29.50; Strudel of caramelised winter fruit and almond crumble, cinnamon gelato $12.50
Wine: Liberal Old and New World list