Non Solo Pizza, Parnell

The rotolo ai funghi with a truffled bechamel sauce. Picture / Martin Sykes

Despite its size, Non Solo Pizza in Parnell has the feel of a local. The bar is big and roomy, there's a garden out back where you can relax in the fresh air, and the restaurant, with its elegant gold curtains and white tablecloths, is relaxing and energetic at the same time.

The crowd here is youngish and buzzing. People drop by other people's tables for a chat. The young couple next to us clasp hands and create their own world, amid the clamour. All Black Ali Williams and a pack of friends (including a hair-flicking blonde) carbo-load on pizzas and wine before moving on.

Then there's the food, which I would describe as adventurous basic Italian. Unusually, the menu has both fresh and dried pasta sections, plus pizzas and the

standard veal dishes, steak, lamb and fish.

As there were four of us we were to get round the menu reasonably thoroughly. We were particularly taken with the desserts — to the point where Mary, who's from Wellington, based her entire meal around the gorgonzola served with walnuts and honey accompanied by a spectacular Italian dessert wine.

We started with slices of bruschetta topped with warmed sliced tomato sprinkled with basil, then moved on to the entrees.

Mary asked for the warm artichoke and fennel salad which was actually part of the fish special and, after a quick consultation between chef and waiter, her cheek paid off. The rest of us chose from the menu: a salad della casa with feta; a Cesare salad; and a bowl of calamari fritti to share. All four dishes were good, but the Cesare and artichoke salads were standouts. On the other hand, the Cesare is big, saucy and seriously rich. Not a good combo with pasta to follow — or even the risotto, groaned Brian as we drove home later.

Having said that, his risotto, which came with seafood this Friday night, was superb without being creamy. Mary's entree-size rotolo ai funghi, which is part of the fresh pasta list, took that prize. The pasta was rolled and filled with ricotta cheese, with a centre of sliced mushrooms, and served with a truffled bechamel sauce. Three tubes was plenty, particularly as she was lining up for the gorgonzola.

Our other main courses, the vitello sassi, and entree-size conciglioni from the dried pasta section, were filling, too. The veal was tender and rolled with prosciutto and sage, saltimbocca-style, the conchiglioni a little too creamy. I'd hoped the tomato in the sauce would overpower the promised combination of smoked buffalo mozzarella, ricotta and parmesan cheeses. Unfortunately, it was the other way round.

Throughout, we chose wines by the glass: Vavasour riesling to accompany the salads and calamari; an Italian Braccessa Montepulciano for the risotto and veal; vin santo and biscotti to finish. Except, that is, for Mary from Wellington, who finally got her gorgonzola, walnuts, honey and chilled Passito di Pantelleria. And, believe it or not, despite the great expectations it was a hit — as was the pannacotta.

Non Solo Pizza delivered on its early promise. The food is classic, bordering on exciting in places, the setting

energetic enough to be an entertainment in itself, while the waiters are fast, furious and despite the size of the place and the distance they cover, can't do enough to help and rarely get it wrong.

Our only quibbles were the richness of many of the pasta sauces and the small selection of wine by the glass.

WHERE: Non Solo Pizza 259 Parnell Rd, (09) 379-5358
OUR MEAL: $263 for four; entrees $7.50 — $17.50; main courses $21.50 — $28.50; pizzas $18.50 — $23.50; desserts $10.50; gorgonzola and other cheeses, $14.50.