KEY POINTS:
Today, 30-something Australian winemaker Ben Glaetzer is sitting with me, having a tasting lunch in Auckland's Parnell.
In six days' time he'll have lunch in Baltimore, Maryland, with Robert Parker, the most powerful individual in the world of wine. Sometimes you have to run with the hares
before you get to leap with the hounds.
Parker has already described Glaetzer as a brilliant winemaker, so my expectations are up there.
We're tasting a handful of Mitolo wines from South Australia. Frank Mitolo (of Italian descent) is Glaetzer's partner and is more of a hobby winemaker, these days concentrating on the business side of things, allowing Glaetzer to do most of the winemaking.
You get the feeling it's a Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid kind of relationship. One does all the talking, the other is lining up the next heist.
They're very convincing, confident and do have an exceptional product at a reasonable price.
The Mitolo label has only been around since 2000, so they've covered a lot of ground and established a fine reputation in a short space of time.
"Internationally there's anxiety and doubt about the future," says Glaetzer. "But our sales are going from strength to strength - we're not dealing with supermarkets and we're concentrating on quality."
Frankly these days I struggle with big, powerful, gutsy, alcohol-loaded, road-tar Aussie reds. I'm looking for balance, finesse, and a level of restraint and understatement.
Mitolo wines have that expression of gustiness but a refinement that is appealing, and with the right winter dish they're magnificent.
With all the purity, elegance and power of these McLaren Vale beauties I suspect the barricades are being knocked down all over the place.
"I love being in another country and seeing people at a table order a bottle of my wine," says Glaetzer. Don't know what they had for lunch in Baltimore, but the Parnell lamb chop was sublime.
RECOMMENDED
2007 Mitolo Sangiovese Rose
With a big strawberry nose, this sangiovese is fresh, lively and bone dry with a rich, yet refined, palate. Drink young, gently chilled. Great with lighter dishes.
Price: $27
2006 Mitolo Jester Shiraz
Intensity of fruit but not overwhelming. Velvet texture and superb balance. Soft and supple, brilliant value.
Price: $32