New label, same quality

2007 Esk Valley Merlot and 2009 Esk Valley Verdelho. Photo / Supplied.

"We needed to freshen up the brand, make it look more contemporary. The dark green label had served us well but it didn't stand out enough on the shelf."

George Fistonich is explaining why the highly-regarded Esk Valley label has just had a complete makeover.

Fistonich knows the business as well as anyone. He's a survivor and a visionary and Esk Valley has long been an important part of his portfolio under his Villa Maria umbrella.

But a change of label doesn't indicate a change of winemaking style, or any major radical departure from a brand that has an excellent reputation, thanks in no small measure to long serving, fastidious and sensitive winemaker Gordon Russell.

Russell is from the non-interventionist school of winemaking.

"We like to keep it simple, I've realised that sometimes I just have to step aside and let the wine do its own thing," he says. "I know I couldn't have made the wines we're making now 15 years ago, simply because I hadn't learnt to actually do less."

Sneaking in under the Esk Valley label is their first sauvignon blanc made from Marlborough grapes.

Russell, a diehard Hawkes Bay vintner, hints it was a commercial decision.

The boss confirms it. "For export markets a lot of people want a Marlborough sauvignon in the portfolio," says Fistonich.

And it's very smart — a drier style with lots of quince, pear and lemon, and just a nod towards riesling.

Followers of the excellent Hawkes Bay Esk Valley reds need not fret — it's business as usual, including that Gordon Russell signature cult white, verdelho.

So, a new swish label but still the remarkable, excellent wines as Esk Valley embraces the 21st century.

Recommended

2007 Esk Valley Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec
From a blend of grapes grown in Hawkes Bay's Gimblett Gravels. Lip-smacking excellent value. Lovely balance of tannin and fruit. Rich, full-bodied, subtle with hints of oak.
Price: $23

2009 Esk Valley Verdelho
Full-bodied, dry style, rich but with zingy fresh acidity. Loads of peaches, oranges, nutmeg and musk. Enjoy while young and fruity, great with seafood and Asian-inspired cuisine.
Price: $23