Models and influencers Lucky Blue and Nara Smith shared their recipe for homemade sunscreen online. Photos / @naraazizasmith
Can you make your own sunscreen at home? A US influencer has shared her own recipe online, but dermatologists and skin cancer experts are warning against trying it for yourself - here’s why.
If you use social media, chances are you’ve heard of Nara Smith - an American influencer, model and mother who’s gone viral for her hypnotic and complicated DIY tutorials for anything from freshly-squeezed juices to cookie cereal and cornflakes from scratch.
While some find her content soothing or aspirational, others question just how realistic it is, and whether it sets an impossible standard for other women who aren’t in her position - she’s married to Lucky Blue Smith, a model who’s internationally famous.
But one of their most recent concoctions has raised eyebrows for good reason; a homemade sunscreen, which includes various oils like coconut and jojoba, as well as zinc oxide powder and beeswax.
Her followers’ reactions were mixed - one commented in wonder, “Did I just learn how to make sunscreen?” while another responded, “Homemade sunscreen is insane”, and another asked, “Where’s the SPF?”
So, before you Google “homemade sunscreen” and reach for the jar of coconut oil at the back of your pantry, what do the experts have to say about it? An Auckland-based dermatologist and spokespeople for the Cancer Society and Melanoma New Zealand have weighed in on the trend.
Is homemade sunscreen a good idea?
Kiwis know all too well just how savage the sun can be in our corner of the world - but can a homemade sunscreen ward off its rays?
Cancer Society researcher Bronwen McNoe says of Smith’s recipe that the only active ingredient appears to be the zinc oxide, adding, “I would think that all those oils would rather make you burn”.
Zinc oxide is a mineral used in ointments or creams to treat or prevent skin irritation such as cuts or burns.
“When you get a commercial sunscreen, all of the ingredients are carefully formulated. With a homemade sunscreen, you wouldn’t even know the amount of ingredients in it.”
The risk with homemade sunscreen is that it won’t offer the level of protection you need, she explains.
“Sunscreen is supposed to screen out as much sun as possible. When using sunscreen, you want it to be broad spectrum, so it blocks UVA and UVB. I would personally recommend SPF 50+ broad spectrum.
“When using sunscreen, make sure that you use it as recommended - before going outside and an adequate amount, 1 tsp per exposed body site and reapply every two hours. If you’re sweating or towelling down after a swim, apply it more frequently.”
McNoe’s message for Kiwis is simple: “You don’t want to be using homemade sunscreen. Use sunscreens that are commercially available and have been thoroughly tested.”
Dermatologist Dr Vania Sinovich, of Auckland-based The Skin Company, says homemade sunscreens do not have the same SPF as commercially available products, which undergo rigorous testing.
“Essential oils used in DIY recipes in reality have negligible SPF, and in fact oil may increase UV damage,” she tells the Herald.
“Zinc oxide is a notoriously difficult molecule. Particle size is important, as is coating, to avoid molecule clumping. DIY sunscreens typically use uncoated zinc particles that are of the incorrect size, with resultant negligible SPF.”
Even if a homemade sunscreen has similar zinc levels to one on the shelf, it probably has a much lower SPF - 5 or less - as Sinovich explains, “Tiny changes to the base components such as fragrance or preservatives can massively negatively impact the SPF.
“DIY sunscreens are not safe, and worse than that, may increase the risk of skin cancer and ageing,” Sinovich concludes.
“Although commercially available sunscreens are expensive, they are much cheaper than skin cancers and the cost of strategies to reverse signs of skin ageing.”
Primary sunscreens and insect repellents with an SPF of 4 or higher must undergo regular and consistent testing to ensure the products are effective, as well as including clear instructions on how to use the product and guidelines on the SPF label.
A spokesperson for Melanoma New Zealand told the Herald, “Unfortunately, there are many ill-informed and harmful views about tanning and sunscreen being promoted on social media.
“Sunscreens that are sold in New Zealand are regulated and must meet the Australian and New Zealand sunscreen standard, including independent testing and labelling requirements. Melanoma New Zealand advises against using DIY sunscreen.
“When choosing a sunscreen, look for broad spectrum, which protects against both UVA and UVB radiation, at least SPF30, and water resistance. Remember to apply 20 minutes before going outside and reapply every two hours with a two-coat approach. Check the use-by date and store the sunscreen correctly, below 30°C).”
As well as applying sunscreen, it’s important to wear sun-protective clothing, a hat and sunglasses, and seek shade when you’re out and about.