Herald on Sunday rating: * * * * 1/2
Molten, Mt Eden
Address: 422 Mt Eden Rd, Mt Eden
Phone: (09) 638 7236
Web: www.molten.co.nz
Open: Lunch Tuesday to Saturday; dinner Monday to Saturday
KEY POINTS:
For a restaurant reviewer, taking friends out to dinner is a fraught business. The Blonde and I long ago exhausted the very small supply of places that are reliably excellent. Friends invited to dine with us know that, as often or not, they will be taken somewhere, in the interests of research, that is reliably pretty poor. The fact that they usually pay little or nothing for the privilege isn't much compensation. Would you go to dinner with someone who said: "It will be bad, but at least it won't cost you much"?
So, very rarely, we go somewhere that we know is no risk at all. Molten is one such. We went there, almost exactly three years ago, about six months after it first opened and were very impressed. On that occasion, the Blonde and I dined alone (in fact, arriving early, we had the place almost to ourselves as I remember). No chance this time. A string of complimentary reviews have ensured that this is one of the hottest tables in town.
The Blonde and I had recently - and, it must be said, uncharacteristically - made a new friend: a New Zealander by birth, he makes his home in England, spends enough time in France and Italy each year to make me very jealous indeed, and is not, I suspect, averse to a nice meal. He had one here.
The restaurant plainly takes notice of what works and doesn't try to fix it. Three of the entrée items - duck livers in marsala cream; spinach and ricotta linguine with Waikanae crab; and salt-and-pepper squid - have been there since the beginning, although describing them on the menu as "the untouchables" seems a slightly unfortunate choice of words to highlight their enduring popularity. But it did not deter one of our number, who was deeply impressed that linguine could be so delicate and fragrant.
I opted for cannelloni, a pasta tube stuffed with minced pickled pork and baked, which was a masterful reinterpretation of a meat of which I have a few bad childhood memories.
The entrées - substantial enough to satisfy stomach and palate but not so large as to dull the appetite - were the overtures to splendid main events.
I was slightly suspicious of a lamb chump that was described as smoked, but our waitress - impressively well-informed and enthusiastic - overcame my reservations when she assured me it was seared and baked as well. I'm glad she did: the meat was tender and juicy, infused with a delicate smoky taste that redefined the idea of roast meat and its accompanying beetroot ragout and cucumber banished any sense of heaviness.
The guest of honour said (twice) that the risotto underneath his big-eye tuna was "sublime" and the Blonde's report of her walnut risotto main made it plain that this was no fluke.
Only two of us had the courage to brave the roast peach, buried in a mascarpone whip for dessert and we did not regret it.
Molten, in short, has stood the test of time and, if anything, improved with age. I understand that plans are afoot to open a bar next door under the name Liquid Molten. Molten Liquid, it seems to me, would (almost) avoid an egregious tautology, but if they run that place as well as this they can call it any damn thing they like.
Wine list: Distinguished.
Vegetarians: Two entrées, one main.
Watch out for: The crowds. Book.
Bottom line: Reliably superb.
- Detours, HoS
