Molten, Mt Eden

By JENNIFER YEE for canvas

Out of the ashes of a space previously occupied by Gero has arisen newcomer Molten. The welcome touches of chunky red glass candle holders and the red tiled counter at the far end of the restaurant prevent the minimalist interior from being too much like a concrete bunker/tea room. An upstairs private room offers a set menu for up to 22 people.

Fortunately, since we dined here, the chef has made changes to the house baked bread with Te Arai estate olive oil and avocado aioli. The plain white and the caramelised onion versions we were served were dense, dry and served cold.

The rest of the menu is innovative and won't disappoint. I like the way parts of the menu list the key ingredient first, for example, "Waikanae crab. Spinach and ricotta linguine. River cress, Pernod cream and crunchy shallots". David, who ordered this, thought the combination was excellent and delivered a good balance of flavours and textures. The use of fried shallots borrowed from the Asian table added an interesting twist.

Adele couldn't resist the black fig tart-tartin with sliced Parma ham, wild rocket, "elderly" parmigiano reggiano and balsamic reduction and declared this very good. We were amused by the choice of word "elderly" to describe the cheese instead of "aged". We like a bit of humour.

My "indigenous" entree of charred green lip mussels nested in a rimu-smoked bacon and green pea risotto was flavour-packed and enjoyable but I'm still wondering what the large wheel of hemp butter should have tasted like. Apart from adding butter-richness to the risotto I can't describe the flavour to you as I couldn't taste the hemp.

I carried on the seafood theme with my main — the brioche crumb crusted hapuka with scallop and fennel mash and a tomato and rosemary beurre blanc.

I'm happiest when my fish is cooked well, moist and gets to taste like fish. This made me happy.

The game fish varies with availability and on this night it was the big-eye tuna, perfectly cooked, on warm potato and green salad with cauliflower truffle cream and mushroom pate. The pate was accented with thyme and oregano. The combination of flavours may overwhelm some, but Adele had no complaints.

David's crumbed veal escalope was tender and enjoyed with accompanying white bean gnocchi, spiced lamb sausage and red pepper jus which were rich and gutsy.

A choice of five sides included choices of red, green or black salad, fries and mash. Our red salad was composed of radicchio, baby red char, roasted beetroot and roasted vine tomatoes. The other salads were equally taste-driven.

For wine we chose the 2001 Huia Marlborough Chardonnay, which worked with the intense tastes.

All the entrees and mains were generously portioned so when we come to Molten again we could comfortably and happily have an entree or main with dessert and be content.

And on to dessert. We were struggling to squeeze one in but in the interests of readers shared a feijoa and vodka sorbet with toasted coconut and pineapple brittle. This was visually and sensorially fantastic.

The menu is priced at the higher end of the market but we commend the use of high-quality fresh ingredients and generous servings.

I'm sure the friendly service will continue to evolve after this settling in period. Our waitress was on her first night and she unashamedly admitted this. With time her knowledge of the dishes and flavours of the more unique ingredients such as the hemp butter will be invaluable.

OUR MEAL: $221.50 for three with a bottle of wine; entrees $10.50-18.50; mains $25-30; sides $5.50; desserts & cheese $11.50-15.50

OUR WINES: $7.50-12 by the glass; $30.50-125 by the bottle (includes bubbly).


* Read more about what's happening in the world of food, wine, party places and entertainment in canvas magazine, part of your Weekend Herald print edition.