Molten, Mt Eden

The Masterstock braised pork hock.

Herald rating: * * * * 1/2

They say travel broadens the mind. I think it sharpens the palate. And, as British food gets better and French stays the same (too heavy by half), I'm not so sure we can automatically consider ourselves among the best in the world. Yes, the food here is good. Yes, most of the time it's reasonably well cooked. But finding a knock-your-socks off meal in Auckland requires planning (because the best tend to be booked solid), at least an extra $15 a head, and a fair bit of local knowhow.

One of the relative newcomers to the best restaurants in Auckland list, is Molten on Mt Eden Rd. Their attention to detail starts with the service. I asked for their least-dry pinot gris. The waiter produced first one, then a second sample of dryish pinot to try. Then, after a consultation with her in-house wine expert, she arrived with a deliciously smooth and aromatic Milton riesling that was simply perfect.

She was equally good with the menu, explaining the dishes quickly and concisely then leaving us alone to get on with it.

But it is the food at Molten that lifts it way out of the ordinary. The menu is shortish but excellent. For once, here is a place where the main courses sound as enticing as the entrees. Chef Michael Van de Elzen sources local vegetables, fruit and fish: strawberries and asparagus from Kumeu, and crab from Waikanae. The gamefish, just arrived from the Viaduct, was kingfish.

He also cooks it beautifully in the sense that everything is correctly seasoned, moist yet crisp, bloody without being gory — and also creative. For example, the parmesan-battered veal was served with a cassoulet of white beans, the chicken cooked saltimbocca-style and served with potato croquettes crusted with pine nuts, hapuku with kina cream and rimu-smoked bacon poms poms, and much more.

After unusual deliberation I began with the Italian Smoked Mozzarella ($18-50). It arrived in a small stack adorned with crisp-toasted ciabatta, the mozzarella wrapped in Parma ham, melting and delicious. The accompanying red peppers, which had been roasted then sliced, were sweet and tender. Only the tiny tomatoes, served warm and skinned, were a little bland, but at Molten they provide a dish of salt on the table so you can adjust to suit. Brian chose the Duck Livers ($16-50) which looked plain by comparison, but tasted heavenly: just enough garlic, Marsala and balsamic vinegar, melting in the middle.

They pay attention to detail here. Although the bigger tables had longer between courses, our main courses arrived with pretty much perfect timing. I don't know how Van de Elzen got the sage flavour through the Chicken Saltimbocca ($27-50) but it was perfect. And in these expert hands a breast of chicken was succulent rather than dry, tasty rather than bland. It was served resting on a couple of potato croquettes and drizzled with a delicious jus.

Brian's Pork Hock ($28-50) had somehow had the bone scalpelled off and then the meat was rolled into a neat but generous tournedo shape with the skin still intact. It, too, was surrounded with jus, but served on a bed of snowy rice polenta. I loved my mouthful, but Brian decided, after an overjoyed start, that it became a little too salty when eaten in bulk. He should know.

We shared an espresso creme brulee ($12-50 and again perfect), happily paid the surprisingly modest bill and vanished into the night.

Looking back our only quibble was that our table for two was squeezed between much larger groups. On the other hand, our meal was outstanding, service superb and the all-up price only a few dollars more than so many mediocre restaurants around town. They have the Red Room for private parties and even offer wine by the half glass.


Overall: Stylish, superb food, exquisite service. One of Auckland's best.
Where: Molten, 422 Mt Eden Rd (09) 638-7236
Our meal: $143.50 for two entrees, main courses, one dessert.
Wine: By the glass $8.50-14; by the bottle $35-72; Bollinger champagne $130