Missionary zeal

Waitaki Braids 2008 Pinot Gris. Photo / Babiche Martens

On planting New Zealand's first recorded vineyard at Kerikeri back in the early the 1800s, Anglican missionary Samuel Marsden, remarked on the suitability of New Zealand's soils and climates to the cultivation of the vine. Close to two hundred years later, winegrowers are still discovering new sites capable of growing great grapes and creating exciting new wine styles.

One district just starting to be explored is the Waitaki Valley in Northern Otago, inland from the town of Oamaru. Its potential was picked up on by the late entrepreneur Howard Paterson, who spotted the limestone slopes of the valley when flying over the region on business. Since he established the first vineyard there in 2000, the valley has attracted some of the country's leading wine names such as John Forrest, Michelle Richardson, Valli's Grant Taylor and Craggy Range.

Given the benchmark pinot noirs grown on the limestone of Burgundy, this variety is unsurprisingly the region's mainstay. In the Waitaki it makes fresh and elegant examples, with less of the upfront fruit that characterises the pinots produced in Central Otago, and a more restrained savoury style that appears to be its signature in the region. Initial riesling and pinot gris releases suggest these varieties also have an exciting future here.

Pioneering new regions is a risky business as those in the Waitaki are already aware. Its cool climate can create havoc with the flowering, resulting in tiny vintage in 2007 in particular, where many wineries ended up with nothing to harvest. However, Jim Jerram of the Waitaki's Ostler Vineyard is confident this should be less of an issue as the vines age.

Another new region has recently sprung up in Canterbury's Cheviot Hills.

Though there have been vines in the locale since the small Cheviot Vineyard was set up in the mid-90s, the region's output has started to gain considerable momentum with the planting from 2004 of 68 hectares in total of pinot noir, riesling, pinot gris and sauvignon blanc at the Mount Beautiful estate.

It was located through a search instigated by Mount Beautiful's US-based ex-pat owner, business academic David Teece. Looking for "something different" and unaware of the existing vineyard there, he found this in Cheviot's rolling hills, good soils and temperate climate pitched somewhere between that of Marlborough and Waipara.

Mount Beautiful's impressive inaugural releases - I recommended the pinot earlier this year - showcases the region's promise and what appears to be its crisp and pure cool climate style supported by a good ripeness from its warm summer temperatures.

Centuries have passed since Marsden's initial observations and it's likely our main winegrowing regions have now been uncovered. But within these and beyond, from Marlborough's southern Ure Valley to Hawke's Bay high country, pockets of untapped promise still exist and should prove a source of exciting new wines.

Fruits from pastures new

Ure Valley pioneers

Saint Clair Pioneer Block 4 Sawcut Marlborough Pinot Noir 2007 $32.95
Halfway between Kaikoura and Blenheim lies the limestone-rich Ure Valley from which Saint Clair have been sourcing pinot noir, chardonnay and sauvignon blanc from one of the Marlborough sub-region's two vineyards. This silky, tangy specimen is its most expressive pinot to date, with cherry fruit and delicate notes of pot-pourri-like rose petal and spice over a minerally core.
(From Glengarry, Liquorland, First Glass Wines, Caros, Centre City Wines.)

Promise for pinot gris

Waitaki Braids Waitaki Valley Pinot Gris 2008 $45
The few pinot gris released to date from the Waitaki highlight the huge potential of the variety in the region. The first taste of this example made under Michelle Richardson and chef Peter Gordon's Waitaki wine label is akin to biting into a pristine crisp pear, backed by a hint of sweet spice and lingering mineral notes.
(Available from www.waitakibraids.co.nz and through Peter Gordon restaurants.)

Cool climate class

Ostler Caroline's Waitaki Valley Pinot Noir 2006 $49.90
The Waitaki valley's cool climate and limestone soils express themselves in this wine's fresh acidity, density and mineral notes. Straddling an Old and New World pinot style, Ostler's has layers of smooth and restrained berry fruit over savoury, slightly herbal and gamey notes.
(Scenic Cellars.)