Isaac Hindin Miller reports from Italy's style capital on the latest in winter menswear fashions.
Woolrich Woolen Mills
Mark McNairy is the undisputed heavyweight king of the menswear blogosphere. Today in Milan saw the launch of the designer's first collection for Woolrich Woolen Mills.
Held in an airy space behind a courtyard off Via Buenos Aires, the set included a rustic canvas tent complete with trestle tables and buffet (the Woolrich 'Low Carbon Canteen'), and walls adorned with text spelling out exactly what sparked McNairy's love affair with clothes.
Spoiler: it had a lot to do with Heartland rock, punk rock and whine rock; and never wanting to work in sales ever again.
A few observations on the collection:
1. This stuff is far poppier than the classic Americana I was expecting, it's like Americana meets Japana (yes, I just made that word up).
2. There are definite hints of Thom Browne in the mix, most obviously in the plaid-on-plaid-on-plaid outfit.
3. The patchwork duffel coats would go down a treat in my wardrobe.
4. Some of the trousers aren't actually trousers, but sweatpants. I cannot advocate men wearing sweatpants, no matter how comfortable they might feel on the buttocks and/or thighs.
5. Mac coats are all kinds of awesome.
6. Mark McNairy is a super cool guy. I asked him what he was going to do in Milan and he said "Shop." Then I asked him where he's going next, and he said, "Venice, and then Paris on the overnight train."
Having suffered a demoralising burglary on an overnight train from Italy to Paris, I instructed him to keep his valuables down his (possibly sweat) pants. He took it well. That earns him a nod in my books.
Gucci
Gucci's interlocking double G logo was created in the 1960s and swiftly became a status symbol as celebrities were photographed at airports toting luggage bearing the mark.
It was no coincidence then that the logo reappeared this week in Milan, printed on the show venue's carpet and walls: The globetrotting jetsetters to whom it alludes were well-referenced in the collection on display.
In 45 looks spanning suits and coats, loungewear and leather, one thing was certain - Gucci designer Frida Gianni's ideal man won't be wearing skinny pants come autumn.
Each outfit featured a distinctly flared pair of trousers in all manner of volumes and weights, accompanied by perfectly tailored blazers with curving lapels and an endless supply of ultra-luxe coats.
In a rich colour palette of dusty browns, charcoals and a brilliant sapphire blue, it was just about enough to convince the common man to recapture the glory days of travel and dress up to fly.
After all, in today's socially networked world, one never knows just how far a photograph might go. It pays to look good all the time. And that's something those monied high fliers unequivocally understood.
* For more from Isaac, see isaaclikes.com.
