Mikano, Auckland City

By JAN CORBETT for canvas

It could have been fun for a couple of girls to turn up at Mikano, order expensive champagne and see if they'd learned their lesson about serving under age-drinkers — remember it was forced to close for several days in the summer as punishment for serving girls younger than 18. It could have been fun, that is, if we weren't more than two decades too late.

Auckland restaurants with spectacular harbour views are a rarity. Mikano capitalises on its prime waterfront position by being built almost entirely of glass. The thrump thrump of the rescue and police helicopters taking off and landing out front is barely audible and adds to the visual interest.

The night we visited it seemed to be the favoured dining spot of alarmingly young men in business suits, no doubt doing business dinners.

The menu opened by offering a variety of New Zealand and Italian olive oils with bread. But I had already had my taste buds claimed by the promise of that night's special entree: scampi and ham-filled ravioli. It cost an exorbitant $24.50 but it was worth it. Jacquie went for the hot and spicy with the chicken empanada ($17.50) — a Spanish pastie you might say.

To follow, we could have had pizzas, we could have ordered a variety of seafood cooked a variety of ways, but we went meat and poultry instead.

Jacquie had the lamb, a combination of rack and kebab with battered cauliflower and a rice salad ($32.50), the rack being a little too bloody for her taste.

I ordered the Cantonese duck on noodles with broccolini and sprouts and was a little disappointed. It was a generous and tasty serving but the meat failed to fall off the bone.

We accompanied our meals with a robust chardonnay from Ormond Estate ($49.50).

I'm not normally a big fan of the national dessert, but something about the pavlova roulade with mascarpone and lemon and passionfruit curd ($11.50) was irresistible, and I'm glad it was. Jacquie's banana tart with rum and raisin ice cream ($11.50) was also very pleasing.

The service was crisp, efficient and informative — there was a 15-minute wait for our desserts, which we were advised of when we ordered them.

For the prices I've dined slightly better elsewhere. But Mikano has a style and a view that makes it worth the visit. And you can park outside.

Ambience: Eastern suburbs glitz

Cost: $179 for three courses for two people with wine.

* Read more about what's happening in the world of food, wine, party places and entertainment in canvas magazine, part of your Weekend Herald print edition.