Mekong Neua

By EWAN McDONALD

Lyndon Johnson might have been responsible. Or it might have been two generations of backpackers, travelling in a fried-out Kombi on a hippie trail, head full of zombie. Whatever the history, just as England's national dish is now a takeaway curry, Down Under it's Thai food.

Look at Ponsonby Rd. Running south from Sawadee to Kwan's, there are seven Thai restaurants - far more than any other ethnic cuisine. And though it clearly has a cheap'n'cheerful image, the food can be dead posh: David Thompson closed his exquisite Darley Street Thai in Sydney, opened Namh in Knightsbridge, and less than a year later has been awarded Thai cuisine's first Michelin star in Europe.

Small wonder that it is so highly evolved. "Thai royal cuisine is one of the finest in the world," Thompson says. "It dates back at least 800 years. Thailand [formerly Siam] is a country that has never been colonised, and there is a continuing link through the royal palaces of elevated, refined cooking where nothing is too much trouble."

Despite that history, Thai cooking was virtually unknown in the West until 40 years ago, the height of LBJ's Vietnam War. Bangkok was the favourite spot for American r'n'r, and Thailand later became a major holiday destination. As Westerners poured in, particularly Kiwi and Aussie backpackers going overland, Thais travelled the other way, taking their culture with them.

First, our palates were tickled by cheaper, fast-food versions from small restaurants where tourists relived, or at least tried to remember, their adventures. As the ingredients turned up in specialty stores and supermarkets, it became popular to cook Thai at home - it's fast, affordable and relatively easy to get right. Now, many diners appreciate more authentic tastes, flavours and recipes which are rather complex, and restaurants are moving upmarket to accommodate them.

Boho, buzzing Kingsland - the inner-city strip that's so close to Eden Park that Andrew Mehrtens' goalkicks would end up there, if he had a decent ball to kick with - is becoming one of Auckland's more eclectic dining streets. There's a Cantonese that's never less than full of expats, at least one remarkable Indian, a new pasta kitchen that should not be missed, and Mekong Neua.

This storefront restaurant offers the cuisine of northeast Thailand and Laos, bordering the Mekong River. While you'll recognise many dishes - red, green and yellow curries, steamed whole fish, sauteed or stir-fried beef, chicken and pork - be prepared for some new tastes.

The Laos and northeast Thailand cuisine is spicy. The individual flavours of each ingredient seem more sharply defined than the more blended approach further south. Overall, the food feels fresher and lighter than you can find elsewhere.

A friend comes for the raw prawns, marinated with lemon juice, chilli, garlic, ginger and fish sauce, and served with a very hot, spicy chilli sauce. We like their appetisers; the hot and sour soup with king prawns, lemongrass, tomato, galanga (Siamese ginger), lime leaves, mushrooms and roasted chilli sauce, and enjoy what they do with a whole steamed tarakihi.

Unlike some Thai restaurants, where the menus could have been printed soon after the last Huey flew out, owner Russell Spiers and chef Chatchai Jamrat, from Chiangmai, are not afraid to add new dishes or feature daily specials. On a recent visit, it was an unusual minced duck with red onions and a subtle combination of ingredients that included chillies, coriander, lemongrass, basil and coconut milk. Have to say we weren't entirely sure about that one.
For those who don't feel confident when ordering, there are several set menus or a helpful touch on the back of the book: you can make up your meal from a selection of last year's favourite dishes.

The youngish staff are quick and helpful - they efficiently and cheerfully coped with our party of 10 on another visit. Prices are reasonable, and you should either BYO or try their exclusive, imported Beerlao, a light pilsener style that sits well with curries.

"The Taste of Happiness," the folk at Mekong Neua call their food. They may well be right.

Open: 7 nights from 5.30pm

Food: Northeast Thai, Laotian

Owner: Russell Spiers

Chef: Chatchai Jamrat

Smoking: Lounge available

Wine: Short list of wines including aromatics that go best with the food, but we recommend BYO (corkage $1.50 a person) or the exclusive, imported Beerlao

Noise: Thai pop. Is there a band called Eastlife?

Cost (mains for two): Under $40

Vegetarian: Absolutely. Full menu

Bottom line: " The taste of happiness" is the promise, and it's delivered at this small ethnic restaurant in one of Auckland's most eclectic dining streets. The distinctive spicy cuisine of the Mekong River region marries fish, fowl and meat with interesting vegetables. Dishes can be mild, medium or hot according to taste. Caters for groups and takeaway, too.