Matterhorn, Wellington

Pork fillet with kumara and mandarin hash, brandied raisins, mustard oil, bacon lardons and broad beans.

Herald rating: * * * *

Located off Cuba Mall and down a long hallway, the Matterhorn was born in 1963 as a Swiss-owned pastry shop. Now, it not only stocks my standard Dubonnet, but also has Lillet Rouge, a similarly aromatic aperitif for those who appreciate retro beverages.

Perusing and selecting from the 12-page wine list and six pages of cocktails is undeniably the best way to get the evening off to a flying start. Be sure to check the choice of New Zealand pinot gris and the French and Italian relatives.

Matterhorn exudes cool and as we are early we get the best seat in the house — smack bang in the middle of the restaurant with views of the kitchen, entry, bar, courtyard and indoor dining areas. It is dimly lit and scores marks for being lived-in but chic. The food team, headed by Nick Huffman (previously of Huka Lodge and Wheelers in Ponsonby), produces innovative food that is still within the comfort zone. The menu has Mediterranean and Middle-Eastern leanings but is essentially eclectic.

My sister Robyn is generally here with her fine arts crowd and this is our preferred evening meeting spot when I'm in Wellington. We start with a drink and a bowl of black olives marinated in orange peel and fennel seeds, but sometimes it's the fried organic feta in gorse honey with thyme flowers or a small plate of caramelised turnips with exotic medjool dates. There is a respectable selection of reasonably priced fish, meat and vegetable-based bowls and small plates to have with a glass of wine or an aperitif. You could easily while away an evening by ordering a procession of the above.

I consider the Tolaga Bay smoked eel on celery and mustard seed salad but end up trying the king salmon confit with ravigote sauce, a mixture of chopped chervil, chives, tarragon, red onion, capers, and finely diced egg white bound with a red wine, chardonnay, mustard, olive and walnut oil dressing. This is served with a dollop of eggplant caviar and roast vine tomatoes. A good beginning, with a glass of crisp Nga Waka sauvignon blanc 2003.

It's cool outside so we order some modern comfort food. My eagerly anticipated choice of crisp veal schnitzel with parsley potatoes in olive oil, tuna mayonnaise, lemon and a braised globe artichoke was a little lacking. Potentially a good combination but the supplier hadn't been able to deliver fresh artichokes and unfortunately the replacement was rather flat and vinegary. The veal was tender but the dish overall was oily.

Robyn had no complaints with her pork fillet. The meat is cured and smoked by the butcher, cooked tender and juicy and served with a well-seasoned kumara and mandarin hash with brandied raisins, hot mustard oil, bacon lardons and broad beans. What I pinched off her plate was delicious. And the veggie man redeemed himself by delivering the broad beans and the promise of summer.

Our waiter gets points for checking with the kitchen to make sure there is a gluten-free dessert for Robyn and it's a double win as it turns out to be the pud that she has been eyeing — caramelised moscato custard, with Capri lemon liqueur-macerated summer berries. It's yum. Mine is the spiced apricot trifle with almond milk custard and Turkish delight. The sponge is infused with syrup made with orange-flower water. A clever composition but some of us may still be inclined to fancy a good old-fashioned trifle. The mint Turkish delight is too hard and chewy.

Service: Slick, informed, unpretentious. Staff also have a sense of humour, are obliging with requests and knowledgeable about the food and wine.

Go for lunch in the courtyard and order mince on toast with a poached egg or have what the menu describes as "a lovely bit of fish with a little bit of salad".

WHERE: Matterhorn. 106 Cuba St, Cuba Quarter, Wellington ph (04) 3843359

OUR MEAL: $120 for two; bowls and small plates $4-$9; entrees $10-$27 (for 12 oysters); mains $19-$27.50; desserts $12-$14; cheese $9-$18.50

OUR WINES: wines by the glass $6.50-$14; by the bottle $29-$160; champagne $65-$330