MURRAY CRANE
LITTLE BROTHER, CRANE BROTHERS, GUBB & MACKIE
Explain your ranges for spring/summer 08?
KEY POINTS:
Across the different brands it is light and fresh. There are lots of soft tailored pieces, blazers, gingham shirts in raspberries and lavenders. It's all made here by us, not spat out in a Chinese factory but made by real people who care about the job they do.
What is your favourite piece in your latest collection?
I love so much of it, especially the fabrics and the feel but if I had to choose one thing it would still have to be a Crane Brothers suit. Why? Because it's all I wear and it always feels right for me. The key: wear it, don't let it wear you.
Describe your own personal style?
I'm pretty traditional but do like my own twists on things; when you spend so much time worrying about what everyone else is going to wear you tend to overlook yourself.
Favourite item in your wardrobe?
Pocket Square, it will dress up any situation.
What can't you live without?
Hard to say, possibly discovering Pantherella socks. Good socks: a small indulgence every day.
Whose style do you most admire?
Cecil Beaton - creatively cool.
You can tell a lot about a man by the shoes he wears. What's in the bottom of your wardrobe?
I have a penchant for English-made shoes: Churches, Grenson, Lobb, and Jeffery West. I've worn and owned them all! In terms of wearing them, I wear them every day but never twice in a row, that's what they're for.
Your favourite place in Auckland to shop?
Flotsam and Jetsam, Richmond Rd or probably Drummonds or at an auction (Art and Object).
Do you have a skincare regime?
Not really, I use Kiehls, get my hair cut once a fortnight and don't smoke or drink; that helps.
*****
DAYNE JOHNSTON
ZAMBESI MAN DESIGNER
Explain your range for spring/summer 08? The Zambesi Man spring/summer collection has a relaxed energy, softly tailored, with subtle references to sportswear. We design for males who are looking for quality, traditional and slightly alternative options. Our customer is diverse - it would be too limited to try to put them in a box.
What is your favourite piece in the collection?
The Metalica Zip Vest. This piece is constructed from zipper tapes and teeth, patchworked together. The back is a cotton suiting. It's a signature piece, and I always become fond of these pieces. We styled the vest under a tailored black suit, so the zips flash from under the suit jacket. It can be worn on its own with nothing under it, and slim black pants, with a zipper belt for a harder look.
What's your favourite piece in your wardrobe?
An old Zambesi Eisenhower pea jacket that a friend left in my wardrobe when he moved to London last month. I've adopted it for now and can't stop wearing it, we are recreating this shape for the new winter collection.
Best purchase of all time?
A pair of Martin Margiela white-washed leather boots, bought in Paris from the men's store in Rue de Montpensier, they were the last pair and my size. It was meant to be.
Can't live without?
My iPod, music is motivating me at the moment.
Whose style do you admire?
There are a few on my list: Anton Newcombe from the LA band The Brian Jonestown Massacre, I like his style and more so his music and am looking forward to seeing the band play in Auckland this Friday. I recently saw a photo shoot of Hayden Christensen and have always admired him and his style.
You can tell a lot about a man by the shoes he wears. What's in the bottom of your wardrobe?
I have recently bought a pair of Zambesi patent leather shoes, they have a black patent front, and matte leather back, they can be worn with or without laces but I prefer them without the laces. I wear these anywhere and they are always guaranteed to get a compliment! I have over 30 pairs of shoes in my wardrobe (crazy but true!). Other favourites are my Rick Owens high-tops, which were a gift from my boss Elisabeth Findlay; and my Martin Margiela black suede calfskin 70s trainers. They are the most comfortable shoes I own; my Dr Marten boots are still giving me blisters and I have had them for over a year!
Your favourite place in Auckland to shop?
For fashion and shoes Zambesi of course! For music I love spending hours in Real Groovy on Queen St; magazines and books, you can't beat Borders and they're always open late.
Favourite skincare product?
Hema Quintessential oil.
*****
CHRIS DOBBS
DIRECTOR OF WORKING STYLE
Explain your range for spring/summer 08?
Our ranges are always about being classic with a modern twist. This summer sees the return of the double-breasted suit to our collection for the first time in eight years, and it is a nice refreshing change for the season. We have also introduced a premium range of ready-to-wear suits made from a new luxury fabric from Bella Italy.
Favourite piece in the collection?
A buggy lined (the lining covers the shoulders while the back of the jacket has no lining), lightly constructed Italian cotton casual jacket with patch pockets. This should be worn casually with jeans and T-shirt. It is a softer style of dressing and because the jacket is cut shorter in the body it looks fantastic with jeans. Perfect for going out bar hopping on Ponsonby Rd after dark!
Who is the Working Style Man?
There are two types. Young fashion-conscious, groovy guys who embrace sharp dressing and are looking to create their own unique look through bespoke tailoring; and busy executives who want to look good but need help.
Describe your own style?
Clean, simple, dressy, sartorial and practical. I am one of the rare New Zealand guys who still likes to dress up for work, so 8-5pm I wear a formal work suit with tie. Then after hours I go for garments that are not a hindrance to the core things in life such as working, relaxing and enjoying life.
Favourite piece in your wardrobe at the moment?
A custom-made Dormeiul suit made by Eddie Von Dadelszen, one of Working Style's very talented tailors. I love it because the cut is completely different to anything I have previously had and features a waistcoat and short cut jacket with a slimmer, skinny trouser.
Best purchase of all time?
A Gucci belt purchased in 1989 on my first trip overseas that I still wear today.
Worst purchase of all time?
Five pairs of Gucci shoes purchased in an outlet centre in Switzerland. All were a disaster, all didn't fit and all were given away to family and friends. Beware of outlet shopping when in a rush!
Can't live without?
My swimming goggles. Because I love swimming and the goggles make it a pleasure.
You can tell a lot about a man by the shoes he wears. What's in the bottom of your wardrobe?
With shoes you pay for what you get, so it really pays to invest in something that will not only look great but will last. I wear 1881 design Loakes, English Goodyear welted brogues which are (funnily enough!) available at Working Style. I have three pairs of this style and I wear them with everything for all occasions.
Do you have a beauty regime?
I use SPF 15 moisturiser, and Oil of Olay is cheap and cheerful.
Favourite wine?
Penfolds Yattarna Chardonnay any year, it's always good.
Favourite city?
Milan, Via Spiga.
Favourite magazine?
Arena.
*****
CHRIS CHERRY
DESIGNER FOR WORKSHOP
Explain your menswear range for spring/summer 08?
As always, it is based around premium denim but with more and more focus on high quality, luxury basics with an artisanal, quirky twist.
Describe the Workshop man?
Our client base is very broad. He certainly has an eye for quality and detail, he's an individual, his wardrobe is not necessarily dictated by his job. He wears what he feels like and he wears Workshop because he feels comfortable, looks great and knows he's good to go from a breakfast meeting, to a site meeting, the boardroom, drinks after work, out for dinner.
What is your favourite piece in the collection?
Our 18oz Big Slub, Selvedges straight leg. A classic jean made from the toughest and most authentic denim you will ever find. The beauty of a classic jean, with the intrinsic quality of this one, is that you can wear it anywhere.
Describe your own personal style?
Pretty relaxed, I'm most happy wearing jeans and a good T-shirt. Shoes are very important. I have to admit to owning a pretty extensive collection of footwear including quite a few pairs of "Carpe Diem" hand-made, horse leather shoes and boots which just keep getting better with age. A current favourite are my Lanvin suede trainers and right now I'm wearing a new pair of Common Projects black leather mid-tops.
Favourite item in your wardrobe at the moment?
It would be a toss up between a John Reynolds Rockpool print T-shirt which we have just re-issued or a new Martin Popplewell skull print.
Best purchase of all time?
A beautifully cut, slouchy Ann Demeulemeester black wool jacket which I've had for years
Can't live without?
A good single malt.
Whose style you admire most?
Nick Cave. I like his f**k off attitude and the way he wears a suit.
Your favourite place in Auckland to shop?
Workshop (of course) and Wunderkammer.
Do you use skincare products?
I follow a basic Clinique routine and I like L'Occitane shaving creme.
*****
NIGEL ERU
LINE 7 DESIGNER
Explain your range for spring/summer 08?
It's inspired from the "good life" trend - think holidays on the French Riviera - a simple, uncomplicated approach to summer at its colourful best! We have a unique brand in that is has a distinctive Kiwiness that utilises specialised fabrics (like breathable and moisture management) that offer unique benefits to the customer. Aside from this our styling has a strong nautical utility feel.
Who is the Line 7 man?
Our customers have an active lifestyle, they are young at heart, educated, savvy, and have an understanding of value.
What is your favourite piece in your latest collection?
The squadron jacket. It's a technical, lightweight spray jacket, sporty, breathable and offering moisture management. Ideal for days spent on the harbour, or worn as a light jacket in the evening at a casual function. now available in the women's cut. It can be worn as a casual weekend jacket, walking or exercising... it's also ideal for sailing!
Describe your personal style?
A blend of sporty and sophisticated styling with a fresh, energetic approach.
Favourite piece in your wardrobe at the moment?
A Line 7 crew neck merino long sleeve top. I wear this everywhere - at the gym pre/post exercise and as a layering top on cold winter days.
Best purchase of all time? Other than my iPod it would have to be the classic black T - I wear this everywhere; it can be dressed up or down.
Worst purchase of all time?
It would have to be a crazy aloha printed shirt I bought in Fiji... it never looks the same back here in New Zealand.
What can't you live without?
Jeans - they are so comfortable and can be dressed up or down very easily. Note: fit, colour and styling are important so it's worth getting a good brand that offers these qualities.
Whose style do you admire?
Bruce Wayne/Batman - a blend of stylish, sporty, technical and contemporary fashion that never seems to date. Aside from this he has the "cool" factor, and deals to the crims in Gotham!
You can tell a lot about a man by the shoes he wears ... What's in the bottom of your wardobe?
A plain black narrow fashion shoe from Zara, a biker-style boot by Hudson, a pair of Nike Jordan trainers, Puma flat slip-on sand shoe, and an original pair of 1950's cowboy boots from Fast'n Loose on K Road.
Your favourite place in Auckland to shop?
I like the convenience of shopping centres and tend to spend the whole day getting all my shopping done in one hit. Loving Sylvia Park right now - easy parking, Nandos, movies, and some great stores for all my favourite brands.
Do you have a beauty regime?
Have to say I cleanse/tone/moisturise daily - I've been a Clarins fan for years but recently changed to Dior.
*****
MARC MOORE
CO-FOUNDER AND CREATIVE DIRECTOR FOR STOLEN GIRLFRIENDS CLUB
Describe who you are designing for?
We are designing for (Liquorice) all-sorts. People between the ages of 18-80. Straight shooters who occasionally go off the tracks, oh and they don't like stunts or tricks. Cause we don't either...unless it's actually a magic trick.
What is your favourite piece in your latest collection?
Smokers cardigan because it's a bit cardigan and a bit blazer, the union of two perfect wardrobe staples every cat must have. Wear it layered, over a singlet in the day or under a favourite jacket at night.
Describe your own personal style?
Part rock'n roll, part fresh'n' fruity... like the yoghurt.
Favourite piece in your wardrobe at the moment?
Teen spirit jeans, I wear them every day and they don't stretch out of shape. Super skinny and super tight - without making your legs look like carrots!
Best purchase of all time?
The first album by The Strokes, Is This It. Until that moment I was into gangsta shit. As soon as I heard The Strokes I sold all my Nike Air Force Ones and Doo-Rags, and bought new skinny jeans and winklepickers.
Worst purchase of all time?
My Grey Marl gangsta rapping tracksuit. The only time I've ever worn it, was to the hospital when I had an operation!
What can't you live without?
Clean underwear because nobody wants fish of the day down their pants.
Whose style you admire?
Hedi Slimane. Google him, he's super-stylish.
You can tell a lot about a man by the shoes he wears. What's in the bottom of your wardrobe?
Dior Homme black and white patent shoes, Combat boots, Converse Chuck Taylors in every colour! Viktor & Rolf spectator shoes, Costume National winklepickers, Vans Chukka boots... It just depends on how I'm feeling and what I'm doing that day. But there are no rules, that's for sure.
Your favourite place in Auckland to shop?.
Wunderkammer, Superette, Area 51, Black Box, Real Groovy & Kraft-Bomb (the arts and crafts markets in Grey Lynn).
Do you have a beauty regime?
I use moisturiser every day and my girlfriend is forcing me to wash my hair more than twice a week.
