Marc Jacobs' new model army turns heads

One of the biggest status labels of them all sent out the smallest and most perfectly formed jewel of a collection in Paris yesterday.

Set against a futuristic cityscape, the Louis Vuitton show featured a gentle army of the world's most fitted models, all in identical, oversized Afro wigs finished with satin bows and wearing tiny tweeds, layered chiffons, battered denim, prints from gingham to ikat, rich embroideries and more - often all in one outfit.

Louis Vuitton designer Marc Jacobs, one of the most powerfully influential names on the international fashion circuit, was on strong form.

Like children in the world's most exclusive sweet shop, fashion editors and the usual celebrity contingent - Catherine Deneuve, Slumdog star Freida Pinto, Gossip Girl's Leighton Meester and the singer Alison Goldfrapp - looked on as toggled jackets, fringed skirts, bags dangling with trinkets and shoes that appeared to be wearing their own moustaches swept by in a gorgeous patchwork of colour and texture.

The ethnic referencing that has been seen elsewhere in Paris was here fused with utilitarian materials - army green cottons in particular - ensuring this was more sci-fi traveller for the 21st century than cliched East meets West.

Like the larger-than-life hair, the size of the new Louis Vuitton bag - most prominently a large duffle - only emphasised the doll-like proportions of the clothes.

Once again, little fell below mid-thigh - but charming innocence as opposed to overt sexuality was the dominant mood.

Puffy pants were layered over cycling shorts covered in the type of intricate embroidery that is usually the preserve of the couture atelier, rather than sportswear.

Flirtatious French baby doll dresses, similarly, were worn over shrunken preppy shirts buttoned up to the throat that were more Brady Bunch than femme fatale.

And what of new season Louis Vuitton footwear?

In place of the ultra-high strappy sandals that have dominated fashion for so long came clogs, moccasins and loafers, all with a spherical heel no more than two inches high.

Elsewhere in the French fashion capital, it appeared to be a tea towel and raffia moment.

The stylist and long-time Helmut Lang creative director Melanie Ward presented her debut collection in a Paris townhouse.

It included bustier tops made out of jute and relaxed tailored separates in soft suede and washed cottons, all with a distinctly homespun and natural feel.

Roland Mouret, whose show opened the day, and who is best known for the form-fitting Galaxy dress, worn by everyone from Demi Moore to Victoria Beckham, softened his normally highly structured silhouette and finished shrunken jackets and coats with what looked like viscose-coated straw.

- INDEPENDENT