Malt, West Lynn

By EWAN McDONALD for viva

In West Lynn, Luke Dallow (Salsa, the locals' favourite pizza-and-red haunt) and Gerard Curtice (Silver Fern, landscapers of choice to the neighbourhood), have turned a sad and unloved corner cafe into Malt, an inner-city Auckland version of the casual, suburban eatery-bar-coffee stop.

The decor at all eight of the Monteith's-tied houses (which include the Horse and Trap in Mt Eden, Basalt, the Drake _ formerly Freemans _ by Victoria Park Market, the Tap Room in Christchurch) is described as "reflecting our New Zealand pioneer heritage".

It must be a nice change for the good folk of West Lynn who have spent hundreds of thousands removing precisely those themes from their villas to install Zen-ish minimalist decor.

Inside that means kauri floors and walls, leather banquettes, a lounge with a fire; outdoors, a garden bar with brush fences where the boys will barbecue when and if Auckland has a summer.

You could describe the menu as down to earth, generous portions, which is what the nice people from the PR agency did.

It means fish and chips, beef stew with green beans and garlic mash, chicken breast stuffed with brie and pancetta, and lamb shanks in gravy, as well as lighter meals.

You don't expect to be surprised with a menu like that, and you won't be, apart from being gobsmacked at the large numbers of locals who have adopted the place within a few weeks of opening.

That is reflected in a kitchen and wait staff who struggle to cope at busy times.

Owners: Luke Dallow, Gerard Curtice

Restaurant manager: Victoria Hampson

Head chef: Michael Dorian

Open: 7 days, weekend brunch from 8.30am

Food: Kiwi

* Read more about what's happening in the world of food, wine, fashion and beauty in viva, part of your Herald print edition every Wednesday.



Owners: Luke Dallow, Gerard Curtice

Restaurant manager: Victoria Hampson

Head chef: Michael Dorian

Open: 7 days, weekend brunch from 8.30am

Food: Kiwi

* Read more about what's happening in the world of food, wine, fashion and beauty in viva, part of your Herald print edition every Wednesday.