KEY POINTS:
Did Air New Zealand Fashion Week live up to your expectations? Join us as we rate the event for celebrity sightings, gossip and runway shows.
JUICY GOSSIP AND SCANDAL
Total Score: 5 high heels out of 5.
After a slow start, this Fashion Week turned out to be the
best ever for dirt dishing, muck-raking and tantrum (and wine) throwing.
Before Fashion Week began everyone was talking about how one label, Stolen Girlfriends Club, had apparently stolen the sponsors from another label, Lonely Hearts.
Then during Fashion Week one rumour that rushed through the Media Centre like a forest fire on a Greek Island was this: "Nicky Watson is refusing to wear underwear!" But what were they talking about? Would the buxom blonde turn up on the runway bra-less? Even knicker-less? Was there some outfit that stipulated near-nudity? It was all too exciting. Our intrepid correspondent rushed backstage to find out what exactly was going on. Well, it wasn't half as exciting as all the assembled male photographers first thought. Turns out Watson didn't want to take to the runway wearing knickers by the james&august label, mainly because of her previous work as a lingerie spokesperson for a different label. Oh well.
Then on the final night of the week there was the wine-throwing scrap at the Huffer after-party, between local social columnist Bridget Saunders and buxom, blonde pseudo-celeb, Aja Rock. As soon as it happened the whole party was abuzz, with bystanders rushing about, telling their version of the tale. One breathless woman raced up to where your Viva correspondents were having a quiet post-show drink to gush that, "I saw it all. And some of the wine even got on my jacket. I might go home and put it on Trade Me." And seriously, folks, that's about the most exciting thing that's happened at a Fashion Week for years.
ENVIRONMENTAL FRIENDLINESS
Total Score: 2 out of 5.
Could do better.
In her opening speech the Prime Minister talked about how important it was that New Zealand fashion be sustainable and that she hoped that the local industry would one day become "carbon neutral". And some designers did start worrying about the subject, notably Kate Sylvester who put organic cotton and eco-merino into her collection.
But during the week we did a little more digging and it turns out the worst offender against environmental correctness is, yes, the humble goodie bag. We talked to staff at Fashion Week about recycling and were told that what causes the most mess was all the goodie bags left behind. "We find them everywhere," they said. "People just leave them lying around. They might take one thing out and then just dump the rest. With one show, where they gave out bottles of soft drink in the bag, we found all those bottles, virtually untouched."
At the other end of the scale was the environmentally friendly rubbish guy, who decided to recycle what he could by himself, which meant sorting glass and other recyclables out by hand.
Maybe next year Fashion Week will attempt to follow the example of Sao Paulo Fashion Week which decided to become carbon neutral earlier this year.
GLAMOUR, CHAMPAGNE AND LITTLE COCKTAIL SAUSAGES ON STICKS
Total Score: 4 out of 5.
It wasn't the Ralph Lauren party in New York but we were happy.
Plenty of all of the above. And we owe the Air New Zealand Lounge an apology. For the past few years it's been almost impossible for the hoi polloi to gain access to the sofas with the best view at Fashion Week. However this year, this was the most fabulous place to hang out between shows, with wonderful service from the staff, great drinks and delicious snacks. And, if you were really lucky, you'd be sitting next to our Rach (Hunter) too.
RAGING PARTIES AND AFTER-SHOW DRINKIES
Total Score: 2.5 out of 5.
As usual, only a small minority "raged".
There were lots of after-show drinks but most of them were over and out by midnight, and that was only when they went late.
The Huffer party was pretty good - partially because of the excellent, blonde-on-blonde wine fight - but it was the after-party held at a warehouse by the Stolen Girlfriends Club label that was probably the most raucous. It started late, too many people turned up and then when they ran out of mixers, party-goers quaffed the spirits straight out of jam jars. Also at the latter, an exclusive new club was founded by VIP visitor, Hollywood stylist Britt Bardot, who got out the black fingernail polish and started painting one fingernail on every hand she liked the look of.
"This way we'll all know that we're in the club," she is reported to have said.
TORTURE, HUNGER AND PAIN
Total Score: 3 out of 5.
A couple of new tortures were devised by cunning designers.
Beside the usual lack of food, there were a couple of other things that were particularly annoying. Irritating soundtracks to runway shows - everything from what sounded like elevator music to sappy folk songs. Or a new development in the form of rather tragic introductory videos that some designers played before their shows. This involved everything from faked interviews to car advertisements played one too many times.
CELEBRITY SIGHTINGS
Total Score: 4.5 out of 5.
If you're a celebrity in New Zealand where else are you going to hang out?
Beside the usual, well-known faces in the front rows at shows like Trelise Cooper and Kate Sylvester there were also several celebs on the runway. There was Ben Mitchell from Shortland Street for Elusiv, former face of Bendon, Brigitte Berger and her daughter, Lily Montana, for Stolen Girlfriends Club and Nicky Watson in clothes that didn't fit her in a group show.
In fact, Watson would win the prize for most often seen at a Fashion Week shindig and Petra Bagust would win the prize for Best Dressed celeb. But the one everyone was waiting for was Rachel Hunter in the debut of her swimwear collection, Lola.
The bright blue sarong she wore at the end of the show was nice - but not-so-secretly, we were all gagging to see her in her togs.
NEXT WINTER YOU'LL BE WEARING
* Tough sexy looks in PVC, mesh, and shiny plastic.
* Mini dresses, strapless and bustier-topped frocks.
* Boldly mixed colours
* Blue, orange, mustard, gold and silver, and purple.
* Ladylike looks.
* Checks of all kinds.
* Lots and lots of satin.
* A lot of lace and a bit of denim.
* Capes, double-breasted coats and the best raincoats ever.
* Interesting sleeves.
* Hoods on everything.
* Trousers with a high waist and a flattering jodhpur shape.
* Jumpsuits, overalls, romper suits and maybe even cat suits.
* Details - such as long slung pockets, low waistlines, buttons all the way up the back of your dress or skirt, tassels, studs and zips.
WHAT THE INTERNATIONAL GUESTS MADE OF IT ALL:
Jo Farrelly, former marketing director at Topshop, London
If I was looking for designers to work with at Topshop, Cybele would be right. Her whole collection was concise and you could see the thought process there. She's also a lovely person.
I was blown away by Huffer [on Thursday night] too. It was great.
I really, really liked Nom*D too. That felt like what I'd heard New Zealand fashion was like. And Stolen Girlfriends Club wasn't the most wearable thing but it was one of the youngest things I saw. It was great fun and it would be perfect for the clubbing scene in London.
The Cooper range by Trelise Cooper would be right for something like Grazia magazine [which Farrelly has described as a kind of weekly version of Vogue]. It's really wearable and quite cool. The labels seem able to provide clothes for a broad spectrum of women, which is pretty good going for a small market.
David Bonney, fashion stylist, working for the Sun Herald, Australia and formerly with Yen magazine in Australia
I would have to say that the Nom*D show, as an event, just really blew me away. I sometimes work as a show director and I love shows that are really integrated, with lights, sound, lots of theatricality. Although I've worked with some of their clothes before, I'd never seen a Nom*D show before because they don't show in Australia and I felt really privileged to be able to see the retrospective they put on.
I also thought the Zambesi range was great. The men's and women's clothes were really beautifully integrated and they always do an amazing presentation.
I was also really pleased with Lonely Hearts. I've seen their stuff before and thought it as a real step ahead for them and really on the money, a bit harder [edged] but very wearable. The shows that jumped out at me had a strong point of view but were also fun and accessible, and that's where Lonely Hearts really succeeded.
Eleanor Morgan, editor of the front section of Dazed & Confused magazine in London
I really liked Huffer - that felt like one of the most cohesive looks I have seen. The cut was sharp, the look was directional and the colours were great.
I also liked the Cooper range. The fabric and the colours were great and it's actually very wearable. I also really likes the way Trelise Cooper makes shapely women feel.
In general I just felt like there's really something happening here in Auckland. It's like when you turn on the TV screen and there's all this static electricity, it's just buzzing everywhere but you've got to find it. Which is just perfect for Dazed & Confused because it's a little bit different.
Carol Lee, creative director of Paper Magazine, New York
A highlight has been meeting everyone. I've met so many cool and interesting people. Everyone's so hospitable. Overall, I've loved everything but the people have been amazing.
The main thing I've noticed is the diversity of the collections, the sensibility and the aesthetic. Some are really feminine and girly, some are really out there and edgy and avant garde. Having that mix is really fun to watch.
I really loved Chelsea Thorpe. Her clothes are really simple, sophisticated and sexy. They're really wearable and flattering. But at the same time I love her personal touches. They're just so special and sensitive. I can definitely see her dresses in New York. Stolen Girlfriends Club had the best energy as a show.
Tim Bess, market analyst for the Donegar Group, New York
I'm so impressed with the youth fashion. I enjoyed Federation, Huffer and retail shopping.
Made [the Britomart store] is phenomenal. I spent most of one day shopping and it's amazing the amount of retail for such a small country and it's very sophisticated.
I was impressed with Trelise's womenswear show - very young, very long. Most of the shows are long. And Trelise Cooper Kids. It's the best kids' clothes. It's special and her store is amazing.
I was also impressed with the amount of quality workmanship. It's been comparable to the New York shows.
I also like Kate Sylvester. Her range is quite smart. In America, we're very classic. Here, it's more alternative.
The Federation store is superb - clean and modern. Personal highlight: the friendliness. I come from New York! Here everyone is so helpful.
New Zealand Fashion Week is very professional. Ricardo [Simich, front-of-house seating person] needs to come to New York. He's a class act. We were at Zambesi and there was a lady with a bad leg there. He raced away and got her a seat.
Nicholas X Morley, Australian fashion designer
Zambesi, without a doubt, was the highlight of the week. I went and saw Stolen Girlfriends Club - you wouldn't wear one thing in it. I didn't rate it at all. It's about four years too late.
Fashion Week has been fun. If you look at Fashion Week in London, it's not all English designers, its designers from everywhere. Same in New York and Paris. Here it's all about New Zealanders. Wave the black flag.
