Chef Sid Sahrawat preparing a crayfish dish in 10 minutes for the Canvas series, Make My Lunch.
Each week Greg Bruce challenges a chef to make him lunch in less than 10 minutes.
The first thing Sid Sahrawat did, after inviting me into the kitchen of his beautiful North Shore home was to offer me a 2014 Man O'War Valhalla chardonnay, a wine that I had been so thoroughly enamoured of earlier this year, when I had drunk a glass over lunch at the Man O'War vineyard, that I had written about the experience in these very pages.
I was so surprised by the coincidence that I said to Sahrawat, "Did you know about that?" He said he didn't, and I believed him, which doesn't mean he wasn't lying, but does say something about how likeable he is.
It's possible this likeability was influenced at least partly by the fact he was about to cook me some Karitane crayfish, which cost nearly $100 a kilogram, making it, by some distance, the most expensive dish I've eaten in this series.
Sahrawat is seen as a sort of god in Auckland's culinary scene, not just because he's a world class chef, but because he's a super-nice guy.
You can say stupid things to him like, "What do porcini mushrooms taste like?" while you're eating porcini mushrooms, and not only will he not belittle you, but he'll make you feel as if you asked the smart question he answered ("In Italy, you just get the mushrooms and with a brush you just take off the sand and you cook it in butter and thyme and honestly it's like the best thing ever to eat. Whereas in New Zealand, the porcini haven't got there yet ... ") rather than the stupid one you should have saved for Wikipedia.
Even better, he asks a lot of questions that make you feel smart - "How's the seasoning for you?" "Do you like white asparagus?" - even though you don't know the answers.
Putting the diner at the centre of the experience, giving him some credit, even when he doesn't deserve it: this is a democratic type of dining, appropriate for these revolutionary political times.
But the chef must also take charge. The crayfish sat elegantly at the bottom of the plate, hoisting aloft a delicate jumble of mushrooms, white asparagus, greens, macadamias and some yellow and lilac flowers. It was set off by a buttery, tangy sauce that bucked against the crayfish and set the mushrooms afire, taste-wise.
It was not just a pleasure to eat the dish, it was a pleasure to be there. Sahrawat topped up my glass, there was plenty of sourdough and butter, and we talked about many interesting topics, like the divisive nature of the Roquefort icecream on the menu at his restaurant Sidart, and whether chefs have a responsibility to challenge the diner.
Not really knowing what Roquefort was, I didn't have many opinions, but I nodded along, enthralled, my mouth full of delight, my head buzzing a little from the wine.
When I finished, Sahrawat said to me, "Are you full?" He was the first chef in this series to ask me that question.
I wished I could have said no.
Sid Sahrawat's scores (out of five):
Niceness : 5 Evocation of existential pleasure: 5 Quality of wine: 5 Quality of questions (his): 5 Quality of questions (mine): 1.5
Recipe: Crayfish with mushrooms, macadamia and asparagus by Sid Sahrawat of Sidart and Cassia
Chef Sid Sahrawat prepares his crayfish dish. Photo / Jason Oxenham
Serves 2
For the crayfish 2x whole crayfish (350g) each Salt to season 50g butter to finish
For the porcini beurre blanc 75ml Chardonnay vinegar 25g dry porcini 20ml cream 50g butter (diced) Sprig of thyme 2 bay leaves 1 shallot (finely chopped) 1 clove garlic (sliced)
For the mushrooms 100g shiitake mushrooms (sliced) 100g oyster mushrooms (torn) 100g white asparagus (stalks removed) 100g kale 25g sliced macadamia Salt to season 25ml olive oil 25g butter
1. Make the beurre blanc first. Reduce the vinegar, bay leaf, thyme, porcini, shallot and garlic by a third. Strain the reduction and transfer to a stainless-steel sauce pan. Place the porcini back in the reduction. Bring close to boil, add the cream and reduce for a couple of minutes. On a low heat start whisking in the butter one dice at a time and keep whisking until the butter is emulsified. Transfer in a small jug and keep in a warm place.
2. At the same time and in another pan, cook the mushrooms. Heat the oil and butter and sauté mushrooms on a high heat for a minute, followed by the asparagus, kale, macadamia and salt.
3. Season the crayfish and sear flesh side down in a frying pan until it starts to colour (about a minute and then the shell side for the same time). Add the butter and keep basting for another minute or until the meat feels slightly firm.
4. Place the crayfish on a plate. Spoon the mushrooms and vegetables on top followed by the beurre blanc. Garnish with some fresh herbs.
