Long haul to a sharp new look

The TEAL stewardesses' uniform in 1946

Over the past year fashion designers from Zambesi have been seen in all sorts of odd and unusual places on Air New Zealand's planes.

They've travelled in the cockpit with the pilots, rustled around in the galleys and poked their well-powdered noses into the crew's sleeping quarters.

"It was fascinating because we got to see things we never usually see as passengers," says Zambesi's creative director, Tulia Wilson.

"Liz [head designer Elisabeth Findlay] got to travel to Melbourne up front with the pilots and we also went into places like the galleys - which can get very cold because of the refrigeration there - and the crew rest areas where they lie down during a long-haul flight.

"It gave us huge respect for what the staff does as it's an incredibly demanding job physically. For instance," she notes, "I never knew that cabin crew might walk several kilometres during one flight."

All this was part of the multi-million dollar process to come up with distinctly Kiwi new uniform for around 4000 Air New Zealand staff.

The Auckland-based fashion label, which celebrated its 25th year of business last year, was given the job of revamping the airline's uniform in 2004 after its proposal was chosen ahead of several other local designers. Zambesi became the fourth New Zealand design house to do get the national airline job after a period last century when big names from overseas, including Nina Ricci, were called in.

The last complete redesign was back in 1992, by Christchurch-based Barbara Lee; before that Auckland label Thornton Hall and Vinka Lucas had the task.

Airline uniforms are usually completely redone every seven years or so, with updating or "refreshing" every three. But Air New Zealand has been waiting a few years longer for reasons of financial health and in order to change theirs along with their plane interiors.

Besides commissioning Zambesi, the airline included its own staff in the consultation process, with workshops attended by several hundred and an online survey completed by thousands.

A "Task Force" of 26 staff was then selected to test-drive various prototypes. They would wear elements of the new uniform at work but only in black or white so that they weren't noticeable amid crew in the old uniform. Staff members then reported back to the Zambesi team.

The end result, as seen for the first time last night, is a group of 12 basic garments, along with redesigned belts, scarves, hats, ties and badges and something that Tulia Wilson laughingly calls "no ordinary apron".

Liz Findlay says the most innovative feature of the uniform is that it's going to be more comfortable. It's designed for action out of breathable fabrics.

"There are no tight waistbands, the female staff don't have anything that needs to be tucked in, for men the tie is now optional and we have used mainly modern natural fibres like New Zealand merino," she explains.

Rob Fyfe, Air New Zealand's new chief executive, has been closely involved in the uniform development since its inception and he describes the new outfit as "chic, sophisticated and timeless".

"It doesn't look so much like an airline uniform anymore," he adds, "If you saw someone turn up at a business meeting wearing these clothes, you wouldn't immediately think 'airline staff'. You'd just think 'now, that's a sharp dresser'."

The next step is to get it on to around 4000 staff's backs. Air New Zealand staff, Tara Sargis and Tina Klay, who have been managing the uniform project, report that staff have already placed their orders and manufacturers are making the first garments as you read this.

Around two thirds of the money dedicated to producing the new uniforms has been spent in New Zealand. Orders for the raw merino wool and for the headgear have resulted in some large orders for local suppliers like Hill's Hats, Rembrandt Suits and Air New Zealand's traditional uniform suppliers, Booker Spalding.

Other items will be sourced offshore in Indonesia, China and Bulgaria.

"Wherever we could we have tried to get things made here in New Zealand," says Mr Fyfe, quick to counter any criticism about taking some uniform production offshore.

Once the uniform arrives in New Zealand it will be distributed to staff around the world, with a grooming guide. And then finally, one day towards the end of March 2006, the changeover will be made.

Mr Fyfe says the new uniform "will be really, really important. Because in the airline business it's people that make the difference."

"As you might imagine, in my role I get lots of compliments and complaints and 95 per cent of them are about people. So a uniform as a means of identifying your people, their sense of professionalism and the personality is absolutely crucial."