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Home / Lifestyle

Live like a local: The Hague

By Lucy Corry
NZ Herald·
22 Sep, 2019 07:00 PM3 mins to read

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It's a family-friendly alternative to Amsterdam, with lots of fab things to eat and drink. Photo / Getty Images

It's a family-friendly alternative to Amsterdam, with lots of fab things to eat and drink. Photo / Getty Images

The Hague, or Den Haag, as the locals call it, is best known for being home to the UN's International Court of Justice and the International Criminal Court.

The elegant city, bordered by the North Sea, is the home of the Dutch parliament and the Dutch royal family.

It's a family-friendly alternative to Amsterdam (just 50 minutes away by train) and has lots of fab eating and drinking options.

Breakfast

Don't forget to save room for dessert. Photo / Instagram
Don't forget to save room for dessert. Photo / Instagram
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Want to act like a bona fide local? Get up and join the queues outside Banketbakkerij Boheemen (Laan van Nieuw Oost Indië 225), the bright orange bakery where all your pastry dreams will come true.

This place, about 10 minutes' walk from Centraal Station, has been a Den Haag institution since 1953.

It's most famous for its bossche bollen (think giant choux puffs, filled to absolute capacity with airy whipped cream), but there are so many other delights to choose from - like the fabulously named "Slagroom Tompouce" (an extremely upmarket custard square).

They also sell their own luxury versions of hagel slaag (chocolate hail) to pour liberally over bread and butter.

Get crafty

De Paas can be found alongside a canal on Dunne Bierkade. Photo / Instagram
De Paas can be found alongside a canal on Dunne Bierkade. Photo / Instagram

The picture-perfect canal street of Dunne Bierkade is lined with historic buildings filled with quirky bars, cafes and shops.

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The absolute pick of them all is De Paas, a cosy pub that serves about a dozen beers on tap and has more than 150 bottled varieties to choose from.

Beer not your thing? Don't worry, there's a vast array of whiskies, local gins and liqueurs to choose from.

De Paas is the sort of place where time disappears (and it's open until 1-2am, every day of the week) so if you're not careful you could spend your entire time here, sitting snugly inside in winter or soaking up the sun on the canal-side terrace in warmer weather. Bar snacks (think platters of cured meats, Dutch cheeses and bread) will help soak up the alcohol.

Wine o'clock

The perfect spot to indulge in an antipasti platter. Photo / Instagram
The perfect spot to indulge in an antipasti platter. Photo / Instagram

Den Haag is famous for art (Vermeer's The Girl With A Pearl Earring is on show at the city's grand Mauritshuis Museum) but locals will rightly insist that you also visit the Panorama Mesdag.

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I won't give the game away, except to say that you must go and see it. Afterwards, it's also essential to make a little detour to Wicked Wines on Bazarstraat.

Here, you can sit in the middle of a tiny square and watch the world go by (mostly on bicycles) while you select from a well-curated list of Old and New World wines (or cocktails).

There's a French-Asian menu too, but the best thing on it is the decidedly un-Asian chorizo croquettes. One plateful will not be enough.

Dinner time

A cozy bar bistro, where you can have lunch, drinks and dinner.  Photo / Instagram
A cozy bar bistro, where you can have lunch, drinks and dinner. Photo / Instagram

After you've had your fill of people-watching on the Plein (the grand square in the centre of the old city), head down Theresiastraat and into Madame Mustache.

This white-tiled bistro, spread over three levels, offers chic but casual dining and is well-known locally for its steak and burgers (they also do a mean veggie burger - goat cheese, portobello mushroom, almonds, chilli jam and grilled courgettes).

Great service, buzzy atmosphere and reasonable prices make this a good bet. Want something more casual near the Plein? Head to Salsa Shop for super-fresh, fast and generously-sized burritos packed with punchy sauces and lots of vegetables.

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- Lucy Corry

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