Lining up for the romance

Given the keen competition, over-supply and precarious, weather-dependent nature of growing grapes, it's astonishing that new wine producers continue to emerge.

Such is the seductive power of making wine and the ethereal, fragile notion of romancing the vine, there appears to be a never-ending line of takers.

Visionaries, gamblers or madmen, they just want to pay their dues and take their chances.

"Bit of a mid-life crisis - an emotional decision," says Chris Hill, who with his wife Jenny, wanted a change of lifestyle after many years in business, and so created Locharburn Vineyard in Central Otago.
Jenny says this "re-evaluation" was the realisation of their long-held dream. "It gives both of us the opportunity to indulge our love of wine in our new home."

While Chris says he is happiest out on the tractor, Jenny drives the sales and marketing. The land, purchased in 2004, now boasts a north-easterly planted 14ha, sustainably accredited vineyard near the top of Lake Dunstan in the Cromwell Basin. There are stunning views to the surrounding alpine ranges and the regions famed hot summers and long autumns allow the grapes to ripen slowly yielding high quality fruit with vibrant, intense complex flavours.

Their winemaker is the much-lauded Carol Bunn, a local girl with a curriculum vitae, and clutch of significant trophies, that many local winemakers can only dream about.

"We're big on vineyard canopy management techniques," says the gregarious Bunn. "We want to produce high-quality, consistent wine with its own unique character and flavours, with the Locharburn terroir central to the wine story."

So far, so good and, if latest releases are anything to go on, the future is assured.

The wines have the hallmark of tender care, smart winemaking and that most essential component, purity and clarity of fruit. The Hills bring genuine commitment, oodles of fervour and a burning desire to do it really well while Bunn weaves her considerable magic. It's going to be a winner.

2009 Locharburn Pinot Rose
A very clever colour and aromatic combination. You can smell the smoked salmon in the glass which is how the wine looks in the bottle. With strawberries and musk flavours, this is a lip-smacking, light, smoky rose. Match with Akaroa salmon.
Price: $23

2008 Locharburn Pinot Gris
Living proof Central Otago is more than pinot noir. Made in the dry style with lovely transparency, depth and complexity. Lots of apples, stonefruit, guava, pear and lychee flavours. Arresting and refreshing.
Price: about $24