KEY POINTS:
My dear girl, there are some things that are just not done, such as drinking Dom Perignon '53 above the temperature of 38 Fahrenheit," James Bond warns his paramour in Goldfinger. "That's as bad as listening to the Beatles without earmuffs."
Not being a big fan, I'd agree with Bond on the Beatles but commend him even more for his attention to serving wine at the correct temperature - something that's frequently misunderstood and when ignored has the power to mar a wine-drinking experience.
While basking in this summer's balmy weather, I've been served some wines at degrees that have driven me barmy: ice-cold whites and tepid reds, which illustrate the need to look beyond the old adage that white wines should simply be chilled and red wines served at room temperature.
Most whites are best served from 6C for lighter and sparkling styles, up to 15C for the finest and fullest examples. As the palate is numbed under 5C and most domestic fridges run at below 6C and beer fridges often far lower, the majority of wines served straight from the fridge are far too cold.
Muting aromas and masking flavours by over-chilling may be a remedy for making a bad bottle more bearable, but does little to enhance the enjoyment of a decent drop. Even 007 was a bit overzealous with his temperature control as I'd suggest a bottle of champagne that great would be best appreciated around 9C rather than under 4 as he declaims.
Most whites do well with a mere hour in the fridge or should be pulled out around half an hour before they're going to be drunk. Or if you've the opposite issue and need to chill wine fast, don't be afraid to throw it in the freezer for half an hour: but don't forget it, as wine that's been frozen is only fit for cooking.
OK, I admit, I'm originally from Britain, a nation accused of drinking its beer too warm, but I'd argue that this is based on a misconception of what an ideal room temperature should be. Flavoursome beers like many red wines may be great in rooms at the cooler end of the spectrum, but on a sweltering summer's day, in a well-heated house or behind many bars, this is way too high for most wines or indeed beer to taste that great.
Heat releases the bouquet and softens red wines, but too much and it becomes dull, flabby and alcoholic. With optimum temperatures for reds between 15 and 19C, with fuller and tannic reds at the top end, the bottle should feel slightly cool to the touch. If it's warm, give it half an hour in the fridge or ask for an ice bucket if you're in a restaurant.
Given lingering preconceptions that red wine should never be chilled, this may raise a few eyebrows but will result in your wine tasting far better. There are also lighter reds which can be enjoyed slightly chilled, such as simple fruity pinots.
At the end of the day, it's best to serve a wine on the cold side rather than too hot as it's far easier to warm it up in the glass than cool it down. Ice cubes are not an option unless you don't mind dilution.
After Sean Connery upbraids his lover about the need to chill her champers, he's knocked out and she's killed by Goldfinger's suffocating paint. While I'm not suggesting a similar fate will befall others who pay little heed to their wine temperatures, a little more attention in this area - especially by bars and restaurants who should know better - would be no bad thing.
Hot stuff and cool picks
FRESH AND FLORAL
Gustave Lorentz Reserve Gewurztraminer, Alsace, France 2005
$28
A pure and well-priced gewurztraminer from the variety's heartland, Alsace, with a fresh twist of lemon peel over classic notes of rosewater, lychee and subtle spice. A fuller-bodied white best served between 10 and 12C.
From Fine Wine Delivery Company, Bacchus, Wine Vault, Blend.
FAR FROM GREY
Greystone Waipara Pinot Gris 2007
$24
From the first crop off Greystone's own Waipara vineyard, this is a great, gently off-dry gris where fresh pear fruit and bright florals are balanced with exotic cinnamon spice and an underlying weight and richness. Serve a touch cooler than the gewurz.
From La Barrique, Caro's.
HARMONIOUS BLEND
Unison Gimblett Gravels Hawkes Bay 2006
$28
A sturdy and well structured blend of merlot, cabernet sauvignon and syrah. Savoury, with notes of meat and smoke that meld with its ripe plum fruit and spice. A fuller-bodied red that still requires a not-too-warm room temperature.
From Wine Vault, Scenic Cellars, Milford Cellars.
