Sensibly, all entrees come in main-dish sizes, too, which increases the choice substantially. So you can have the raw fish salad in a big helping, but having had a little helping, I wouldn't advise it. The fish - doubtless of quite good quality - had spent too little (or perhaps too much) time in its lemon-juice marinade, so was hard and rubbery, and on the list of other ingredients (coconut milk mainly), anything that would add some zing (chilli, say, or coriander) was in short supply or missing altogether.
What it did not lack for was refrigeration: it was cold enough to make the sinuses ache and the fridge was also the main player in a dish of oysters we had ordered to start. They had been shucked before delivery, and stored for hours, drying the flesh so it had a chalky, dull pallor. It was, the waitress explained, so as not to keep people waiting, but I reckon that if a seaside seafood restaurant doesn't shuck oysters to order, they could at least invest in a salt-water hand sprayer and some cling film.
Of the fish mains our group ordered, it's hard either to complain or wax lyrical. Each dish comes with the same generic salad - a large garnish, really - and the ones we chose were fine.
Some yellowfin tuna (seared and served with tamari, cashew and bamboo shoots) was pretty good, closely followed by the snapper simply pan-fried and served with lemon juice (the ankle-deep pool of butter was not on the menu, just on the plate). I asked for my side of chips to be "well done, extra crisp" and they were as soggy as a dead man's handshake, so heaven knows what they are like normally.
I will forbear to identify the member of our party who went for the baked fish with a sauce of Galliano, banana and cream; I will just say that you can take the girl out of Dannevirke, but well, you know the rest. I am assured that it was an excellent example of the genre.
It also rendered pudding redundant. I can, however, report that the list (passionfruit cheesecake, pav, chocolate mousse) are exactly what you would expect in a restaurant where each dish comes with the same generic salad. And it will keep you away from those gluey oysters.
• Entrees $14-$19; mains $29.50-$34.50; desserts $14.50
Cheers
Waiheke's Spanish connection
Waiheke Island's wine scene is having a sea change as diverse international wine styles are now being made there. The biggest game-changer so far is the second tempranillo from Mudbrick Vineyard, released late last year. Winemaker Patrick Newton says the first tempranillo grapes harvested were in 2012 but they all went into the winery's rosé. He has since made two reds from tempranillo, which is Spanish in origin. It is best known for its starring role in full-bodied red wines from Rioja and Ribera del Duero, in northern Spain. Newton also makes viognier and syrah at Mudbrick Vineyard. The 2014 Mudbrick Vineyard Reserve Tempranillo is $60.
mudbrick.co.nz
Krug by the glass
It's every Champagne-lover's fizzy dream and now it could be their reality: Krug by the glass from 5pm every day at The Grove's new bar at 43 Wyndham St in central Auckland. But wait, there's more. Canapes will be served with the Krug. It will set you back $65 a glass, however, as Krug lovers might expect. Krug Grande Cuvee will be served by the glass until February 28. Reservations not required.
- By Joelle Thomson, joellethomson.com
