KEY POINTS:
Arrivistes from new wine producing nations have been attacking the supremacy of French wine across the world. As this bastion of winemaking tradition is stormed by revolutionary forces from within as well as outside, have its wines still got what it takes to cut the moutarde?
France is undeniably a Jacques-of-all-trades, making crisp and edgy whites in its cool northerly regions to robust Mediterranean reds from the south and every conceivable style in between.
France has benefited from its long love affair with the vine. In contrast to the "New World" nations like New Zealand, it's had more than 2000 years to hone its wines and work out what grapes grow well where and how best to manage them.
This long tradition may have given France a head start but it's also held the country back in being enshrined in its antiquated and rigid wine laws. These dictate the winemaking and viticultural practices for each region, what grapes can be planted in each, how these are to be grown and made into wine, and even preventing some wines from featuring their grape varieties on their labels.
While preserving some of the practices that have made its wines great, their inflexibility has also prevented the kind of experimentation that's helped the New World flourish. But things are set to change with recent approval by the French Government of a revamp of the county's system of wine classification. The old restrictions may remain in its top Appellation Controlee (AOC) tier, but the most radical move is the creation of the Wine of France category. Labelled by grape variety and permitting more modern, cost-effective winemaking practices, grapes can now be planted wherever a grower likes.
Even without these changes, France's great wines have still been able to go from strength to strength and have arguably never been so good. This has been assisted by a recent run of strong vintages, with a year like 2005 producing stunning wines in key regions.
Wines may be getting better the world over, but that's true of France too. Plus it has the added weapon in its armoury that more than any other country, it's able to do so much so well.
FRENCH FANCIES
COOL CHENIN
Champalou Vouvray 2005 $27.50
The Loire is one of France's coolest regions, producing lighter reds, zingy sauvignon blancs and some wonderfully fresh and pure chenin blancs like this drier style of Vouvray. It's creamy textured, with succulent stonefruit, a hint of flint and a green apple and citrus bite.
From Maison Vauron.
ROBUST RED
Tardieu-Laurent Les Grands Augustins Vin de Pays d'Oc $19.99
Vins de Pays from the Mediterranean climes of southern France regularly deliver rich, ripe fruit at highly affordable prices, which is certainly true of this syrah, merlot and mourvedre blend. Earthy and spicy, it's brimming with sun-baked berry and plum fruit, underpinned by earthy spicy notes and some chunky tannins.
From Caro's.
RAVISHING RHONE
Les Pallieres Gigondas 2005 $49
If you're going to splash out, $50 can go far further in the Rhone than Burgundy or Bordeaux. The 2005 vintage was just as impressive here, as illustrated by this intense and velvety textured southern Rhone from the same stable as the legendary Vieux Telegraphe. It's a meaty wine with pure dark berry fruit and savoury, spicy and minerally layers.
From Maison Vauron.
