Leonardo’s, Ponsonby

Picture / Fotopress

The debonair Leonardo himself greeted us at his restaurant as if we were honoured guests. What is it about Italian men that is so immediately attractive and charming? I mean if a New Zealand bloke kissed your hand and said endearing things within the first

few minutes of meeting, you'd think he was a tosser. But these Italians not only get away with it, they humble New Zealand men in the charm stakes something terrible.

Leonardo's Ristorante-Bar Italiano is funky and charming and cozy. It has ambience by the truckload and feels authentic, with a touch of provincial New Zealand. The bare brick walls and hanging brass plates give it a rustic touch so that it has a comfortable down-to-earth but sophisticated feel.

As the waiter explained the dinner specials, sitting between us on a chair from another table, I noticed Stephanie had a big grin on her face. Then I noticed I did too. His voice with that mellifluous undulation was simply lovely to listen to. And as the restaurant filled up we heard Italian voices all around us. "I feel as if we've gone to Italy for the night," said Stephanie, genuinely delighted.

She settled on the brasato d'agnello al porto (lamb in a port wine sauce, $30.50) and a glass of Plantagenet Omrah Shiraz from Western Australia ($10 or $45 for a bottle). It was "yum" she said and later had another. I stuck with the delicious Ferrarelle sparkling mineral water, being momentarily abstemious.

I ordered the arrosto di cinghiale al miele (wild boar, $30.50) which the waiter said was probably from the South Island. The crackling was excellent and the pork tender as the night. It came with a chestnut mash neither of us had had before and thought a much more interesting starch alternative.

Stephanie's lamb marinated in orange was great — moist, tender and accompanied by a fabulous, rich port wine sauce. An added extra was the polenta and perfectly cooked zucchini and broccoli. Nice to get good veggies without having to order them separately.

But the best was to come: to hell with the expense, we'd lash out and have pudding. My panna cotta ($15) was creamy and divine and the fruity sauce just made it more so. Stephanie said her crostata delizia ($9.90) — one of the most wickedly chocolatey things I've ever tasted — was "so evil", she felt sure she'd break out the next day.

We decided to accept gracefully that to be called signora was our lot — even though I misheard one waiter, thinking he called me signorina, and felt flattered for a moment until Stephanie put me right.

It was a cold night and comfort food was exactly what we'd needed. We agreed the fare at Leonardo's was buonissimo and Leonardo himself the kind of guy you'd like to have as a favourite uncle.

Days later I returned after 9pm with two others for coffee, pudding and opera. We arrived while the soprano was in full flight and were given a table near the door. The waiter explained it was necessary to book on Wednesdays when the opera singers perform, and we were lucky that night.

My decaf short black was good, unusual because decaf beans often go stale before they're used. I resisted the temptation to order desert and was happy to sample Coran's torta choccolato, a very chocolatey cake with whiskey. It was excellent, moist, but they'd been a bit stingey with the cream.

Scott, just back from six years in Europe, said his hot chocolate was a bit on the cool side, but his biscotti were fresh.

Before we left, Leonardo gave me the hand-kissing treatment again. Charmed, I'm sure.

WHERE: Leonardo's, 263 Ponsonby Rd, Ponsonby (09) 361 1556

OUR MEAL: Our meal. $136.70 for two main courses, three desserts, one hot chocolate and four coffees, and one bottle of sparkling mineral water.

OUR WINES: By the glass $10

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