Little 'Lato's Kimchi and Peanut Butter gelato has become a cult favourite among adventurous cold treat fans.
Little 'Lato's Kimchi and Peanut Butter gelato has become a cult favourite among adventurous cold treat fans.
Salmon ice cream and celery sorbet – not exactly what springs to mind when dreaming of icy treats.
But across the globe, and increasingly here in New Zealand, savoury ice cream is captivating adventurous palates. From Michelin-starred restaurants to boutique gelato makers, this niche trend is elevating ice cream from dessert to a versatile flavour adventure.
Globally, this trend has been embraced by some of the world’s most innovative chefs. At the Michelin-starred Alinea in Chicago, chef Grant Achatz has played with tomato sorbet, corn and foie gras ice cream among other creative flavours.
Well-known experimental chef Heston Blumenthal has incorporated black olive and beetroot into his offerings, while French chef Pierre Gagnaire has explored flavours such as green pepper ice cream.
In Japan, chef Yoshihiro Narisawa’s two-Michelin-starred restaurant has come up with miso, seaweed and wasabi variations.
And closer to home, Melbourne’s Fluffy Torpedo has a dizzying array of savoury ingredients in its creative line-up, such as Sour Green Apple Juice, Iceberg Lettuce Sorbet; Vegemite White Chocolate; Milk Chocolate, White Chocolate Salt and Vinegar Chips; Buttered Baguette; Kalamata; and the mind-bending combo of Pork Butter, Chilli Oil, Roasted Toffee Almonds.
Here in New Zealand, Hannah Engelsman of Little ‘Lato is leading the charge with her innovative take on savoury ice cream. She sees potential for the category to grow but acknowledges its niche appeal.
“People love trying something a bit unique, even if it is just to taste it,” she says. “New Zealand often follows overseas trends so I think there is room for this category to grow, but I think it would always be a smaller market.”
Hot day? How about a bowl of Little 'Lato's Massaman Curry gelato.
Her repertoire of savoury offerings is extensive and deeply creative. Ones she has tried so far have included a partnership with Simon Gault to develop a bespoke flavour – Balsamic Apple Crumble, using a caramelised balsamic vinegar as a unique ingredient to elevate flavour.
Little ‘Lato’s Massaman Curry won a trophy a couple of years back at the NZ Ice Cream and Gelato Awards and is literally what you would imagine a curry tasting like in cold form. The Peanut Butter and Kimchi flavour was done in collaboration with The Wild Fermentary and has somewhat of a cult following with people buying tubs and admitting to being addicted.
But one of Hannah’s personal favourites is the Cheese and Crackers flavour: “Again, this was developed for the Ice Cream & Gelato Awards and is one that I honestly love. It is such a delicious flavour. A savoury number made with tasty cheese and Snax crackers, but still with a touch of sweetness and delicious enough to devour on a cone,” she says.
Cheese, in particular, tends to lend itself to savoury ice cream. Its creamy texture and complex flavour profiles enhance both sweet and savoury combinations. From the tang of goat cheese paired with honey and walnuts to the rich umami of parmesan or blue cheese, dairy lovers have myriad possibilities to explore.
Hannah elaborates: “We have done many recipes using cheese such as ricotta, cream cheese, sour cream, mascarpone, tasty cheese, parmesan, blue cheese ... Some of which are still sweet products overall, especially when paired with fruit pulps or biscuits, but have an added richness or depth of flavour.”
The polarising salmon ice cream with capers is one for the bold among us.
Other flavours she has explored include a polarising Smoked Salmon and Cream Cheese, served with capers and pita crisps, and Goats Cheese, Honey and Walnut, created in collaboration with Belle Chevre Creamery.
Hannah’s love of experimentation is evident: “We partnered up with Kind Eatery a couple of years back to do a plant-based degustation in which a number of our gelato products were incorporated into a four-course meal.”
The Peanut Butter and Kimchi was one of the flavours used, as well as a Celery Sorbet, and a Coconut Lemon & Almond combo added on top of a risotto – “which was incredible”. Herb-loaded sorbet and decadent chocolate sorbet were used as palate cleansers and the final course respectively.
Celery sorbet makes for a refreshing palate cleanser. Photo / Little 'Lato
Savoury ice cream is not just a culinary curiosity; it reflects a broader trend of experimentation and boundary-pushing in modern cuisine. This shift is evident in the way chefs and gelato makers are increasingly blurring the lines between savoury and sweet. It’s about surprising the palate, offering diners something new to talk about, and turning an everyday treat into an artful experience.
Consumer interest in unique flavours seems to be on the rise, driven by a thirst for adventure and a desire to try the unexpected. Social media has amplified the trend, as people share photos and reviews of their daring food choices, turning the act of tasting into a cultural moment.
For many, the appeal lies not just in the novelty but in the storytelling – whether it’s about the origin of ingredients, the creativity behind the recipe, or the shared experience of trying something bold.
As Hannah says: “The goal is to have something that blows customers’ minds but is also delicious and makes them want more.”
