As Karen Walker celebrates 20 international solo shows, the designer looks back at her most memorable moments on the catwalks of London and New York.
She has long been considered the internationalist of New Zealand fashion, and this week Karen Walker celebrates a milestone in the brand's international career: her 20th overseas solo show, showcasing a collection in New York called Sea Monsters. Before Monday's show - a "Victorian, mod, science fiction narrative" that featured ocean-inspired and paisley prints, luxe metallic accents, ruffle and metal chain details and another fantastic footwear collaboration with Beau Coops - Walker described it as "Captain Nemo meets Brian Jones".
For Walker, the only New Zealand-based designer to consistently show beyond Australasia, the decision to present her collections overseas 20 seasons - or 10 years - ago was a simple one: the New Zealand market is very small, and to grow outside it a brand traditionally needs to be on the ground (although the internet is slowly changing this for younger, less-established designers). "We've always felt that if a brand is serious about being international that it has to show on the major international circuit; that is, New York, Paris, Milan and London," explains Walker. "If you want to be noticed internationally you have to put yourself in front of that audience, and those most critical of eyes, whether they be buyers or press, in a way that matters."
As well as New York, Walker has shown in London for 20 seasons and been selling outside of New Zealand for 15 years; with key markets outside of Australasia in Japan and the United States. Furthering that US growth, Walker recently marked another major milestone in her brand's international growth; signing a partnership with mass market chain Anthropologie that will see her lower-priced Hi There line sold through their US stores.
There had been earlier shows abroad, prior to the last 20 presentations - the first, an invitation from the NZ Wool Board to show at Hong Kong Fashion Week in 1998 which led to the brand being picked up by US department store Barneys; in Sydney from 1998-2000, and as part of the famous London group show in February 1999 that gave rise to the "New Zealand Four" and was said to put New Zealand fashion on the international map. But it "didn't really break much new ground" for the Karen Walker brand, which already had representation in the US, was already selling into Barneys and a number of other international boutiques, says Walker. For her, the past 10 years of the 20 international solo shows in the major fashion week circuit cities of London and New York, are the "ones that really matter".