Women aged over 40 have often felt ignored by fashion, but a range of new labels aim to look after their style needs.
Too short, too sleeveless, too expensive, too ridiculous, too boring: these are the fashion qualms of the 40-plus woman. How do you stay "fashionable" when your sartorial choices are often reduced to either frump or victim? How do you stay inspired by an industry that is, by and large, obsessed with those who are under 25, and which uses girls who may not have even left school yet to sell you things?
It's a common complaint, and one that I hear all the time from older women who largely feel ignored by fashion.
Recently though there have been signs - and many claims in the media - that older women are being given the time of day by the youth-obsessed industry. Designers and magazines are featuring more and more "mature" models in shows, campaigns and editorials - Madonna, 51, is the face of Dolce & Gabbana; Louis Vuitton included 47-year-old Elle Macpherson on the runway, and she also appears on the cover of a recent issue of Tatler; 46-year-old model Kristen McMenamy features on the August cover of Dazed and Confused in all her grey-haired glory.
Models and Madonna are by no means the most realistic way to measure the state of fashion, but the presence of these older faces at least alludes to the fact that fashion is realising it needs to acknowledge this customer base - who can actually afford to buy the clothes. As does the return to wearable clothes that real-life women of a certain age can actually wear day-to-day, not just to fashion parties or on the red carpet.
New local label Loobie's Story is embracing the knowledge and experience that comes with age, both literally and sartorially - their slogan being "A Life Well Lived". Laurinda Sutcliffe launched the brand with her husband after finding her life story taking an unexpected turn last year when she was made redundant from her role at High Society. Sutcliffe, who is in her mid-40s, says the brand is for women having great, full lives; those with experience. She thinks of it as appealing to women aged 10 years either side of her, those who want a wardrobe that can multi-task across busy lives. Sutcliffe isn't focusing on trends with Loobie's Story, but aims to keep clothing fun and colourful as opposed to classic.
"By the time you hit your 40s it's time to stop wearing things just because they're on trend, regardless of whether they do anything for you," says Sutcliffe, "In certain ways our self confidence can get stronger as we age so I think 40-plus is a great time to start expressing your personality. This might mean taking some risks and finding a look that's about a style, not fashion.
"Being in your 40s is a time in a woman's life when she first starts to be aware of the ageing process so I think finding a look that makes you feel youthful, sexy and modern, but not a fashion victim is what it's all about. That said, if a trend comes along that suits and flatters, then I would say go for it!"
Clothes that fit in with women's various lifestyles is key to local label Verge, says co-founder Ian Webster.
"It must be comfortable and versatile and fit into our customer's lifestyle. No matter at what point she is in her life, from having a career, running the family home or an empty nester, she doesn't want to have to struggle to work out how to wear something or what to wear with it. We try to make things as easy as possible to both wear and co-ordinate into a 'look' or outfit."
Price and value for money also need to be taken into consideration. "Our customers have access to good fashion at all price points and we believe that they have moved from having a lot of items in their wardrobe to wanting good quality investment pieces that are functional and modern," explains Webster.
This lack of choice at a more accessible and lower-priced level led to the launch of Trenery, the new brand from Country Road aimed at customers who, according to their website, "appreciate the beauty of a simple, edited collection that is modern in approach, classic in style". Or, more specifically, those who are 40-plus. The first New Zealand Trenery store is set to open inside Westfield Newmarket in Auckland on August 5.
Trenery and Country Road designer Sophie Holt says that before launching the brand in Australia last year, they had researched the older customer and found many women were saying, "Please don't treat us like we're not fashionable anymore". Holt describes Trenery as being the "big sister" to the popular Country Road label, with less of a focus on trends and more on simplicity and luxury.
"It's about beautiful, simple product that has this everyday feeling of luxury about it - simple details, beautiful cottons and silks and natural materials." Think of the iconic pieces that form the basis of a good wardrobe - "a beautiful camel trench coat, a white cotton poplin shirt dress, the perfect white linen shirt, beautiful pieces of
knitwear, some great basic tees, the striped T-shirt - classics that are thought through with the detail".
And though it may be aimed at the 40-plus market, Holt says she is obsessed with "keeping it modern and not frumpy". This means hemlines are longer - but not too long - and the design team focus on not doing too many sleeveless pieces.
"And if we do do sleeveless, we have little silky bombers or knitwear that you can layer it with if you want to."
This focus on timelessness isn't just for the 40-plus woman of course: fashion for all ages has been stripped back and returned to a cleaner, more refined look thanks in large part to Phoebe Philo's makeover of Celine.
Holt says this influence is great for Trenery - "the fact that the whole look of cleaner, more ladylike and simpler is exactly what we are about". They may be aiming for the 40-plus market, but Holt says it's not just about age.
"It's about an attitude of a customer who is slightly more classic - and potentially who is a little bit of an older customer.
"It's someone who appreciates quality, value, beautiful fabrications and simple design; stuff that is fashionable but still easy to wear."
British department store Selfridges recently opened the "Forever Shop", which also addresses this need for longevity and classicism.
The store within the store features classic pieces - fashion, design and literature - that have stood the test of time. Fashion-wise, this means the Burberry trench, Levis 501s, Wayfarers and Hermes scarves - classic items that have survived every fashion whim and trend.
But classic can sometimes be a byword for boring.
This isn't the only choice. Some of the most sartorially inspiring and interesting 40-plus women are those who have honed their signature style over time. NOM*d designer Margi Robertson is cooler than most twenty-somethings with her signature black layers and punkish aesthetic. Her advice?
"Dress for yourself. We often find we gain our best customers in their 40s - they have often been quite conservative prior to 40, but confidence in one's self seems to manifest itself at this age.
"Often there is an opportunity to step outside the box and experiment with design.
"The bottom line, however, should always be that you feel comfortable in what you are wearing, because that then portrays a confident and strong, stylish attitude."
As Kristen McMenamy told Vogue.com recently: "You can get older and still be rock 'n' roll."
MATURE WOMEN WE LOVE
* The self-described "world's oldest teenager", Iris Apfel (88)
* Model and Gaultier muse Ines de la Fressange (52)
* Actress Lauren Hutton (66)
* Model Kristen McMenamy (45)
* Fashion designer Vivienne Westwood (69)
* First Lady of America, Michelle Obama (46)
* Actress Helen Mirren (64)
* Singer Grace Jones (62)
