Rating: ***
Address: 531 Karangahape Rd (corner K-Rd and Hereford St)
Phone: 09 377-2218
Website: joybong.co.nz
Cuisine: Thai
From the menu: Red curry fish cakes $10, pork spare ribs $10, spring rolls $10, barbecued duck curry $28, Isaan crispy fish salad $25, grilled pineapple $12, mango brulee $12
Drinks: Fully licensed
On my first visit to Thailand, more than 15 years ago, I hitchhiked over the Malay-Thai border and made straight for a roadside stall selling BBQ chilli chicken. From that moment on I was hooked on the fragrant flavours of Thailand.
When Joy Bong first opened in the late 90s, behind the Grey Lynn laundromat, I was so happy to find a place that served authentic Thai food. It became so popular that it promptly moved to bigger premises on K Rd and has enjoyed a strong reputation ever since.
Last year it had a management change, so I thought I'd pay a visit to see if it was living up to its reputation.
Tonight it is the film director and I, reminiscing that this time last year we were in Thailand, filming the TV show World Kitchen and eating up a storm.
Simply talking about Thailand makes us hungry so we order three starters between the two of us the instant we are seated. We go for red curry fish cakes, spring rolls and pork spare ribs.
The fresh fish cakes were outstanding and instantly took my tastebuds back to Thailand - the standout ingredient, kaffir lime leaf, that quintessential aroma and taste of Thai cooking. The accompanying dipping sauce was sweet and syrupy with crushed peanuts and just the right amount of chilli.
The pork spare ribs were tender and tasty but I suspected a bulk supply marinade had been used as there were no distinct flavours of ginger or tamarind, as suggested by menu description.
Likewise the spring rolls. They were crisp and fresh out of the fryer but would have been vastly improved with a sweet chilli sauce made in-house instead of the stock-standard one they were served with. I can appreciate that restaurants need to resort to some pre-made supplies in order to gain efficiencies but, when this comes at the expense of an authentic taste, it's always a shame.
Often it's these small condiments and additions that, when made from scratch, can really distinguish one eatery from the next.
Our hunger now under control, Tiger beer in hand, we turned our attention to the mains.
The Joy Bong menu offers most of the usual curry, noodle and wok dishes but in addition they specialise in cuisine from the northeastern region of Thailand and it is here that they really deserve their reputation. From the Isaan selection, we ordered the crispy fish salad and it was fantastic.
Fresh tarakihi fillets were served with a spicy salad of red onions, lime, mint, coriander and spring onions. The spicy sauce that accompanied this dish was the real deal and as good, and hot, as anything I've had in Thailand.
For our other main we ordered the barbecued duck curry, a dish inspired by Royal Bangkok Thai cuisine. I've enjoyed this rich curry in the past, with its base of red curry paste, coconut cream, seasonal vegetables and the interesting addition of grapes, but tonight's version is not regal.
It's a tad sweet and neither the aroma nor the balance of flavours quite hits the spot. It's as though in reproducing it so often (this dish is one of Joy Bong's most popular) it has somehow lost its finesse. Someone in the kitchen needs to refresh the recipe. We ordered sticky rice with both mains. Not all Thai places offer this glutinous rice variety and it's a real treat - chewy and tasty and served in individual woven bamboo baskets.
The dessert selection features some old favourites given a Thai twist, such as ginger lime pie, chilli chocolate brownie and meringue served with lychees. What got our attention was the mango brulee and grilled fresh pineapple served with cloves and black pepper. Both were decent attempts although the mango brulee did feature another disappointing efficiency - tinned, or frozen, mango.
Joy Bong has great ambience with its floating, fresh flower mandala in the entrance, open fireplaces and softly lit statues of Buddha adorning the walls.
Unfortunately, it seems to be relying too heavily on group bookings and being able to pump out food lacking some of the subtle nuances that it built its reputation on. It will need to re-focus on the food before I rush back.
