Herald rating: * * *
Address: 46 Victoria Road, Devonport
Phone: (09) 445 4151
Open: Coffee, lunch and dinner Tue-Sun
Cuisine: Eclectic
From the menu: Pumpkin soup, toasted bread and lemon wedge $8.50; crostini, tomato baked bread, tomato, pesto, rock melon, French camembert cheese, olives, garlic hummus $12.50; seafood basket, prawns, fish, calamari, with homemade tartare sauce, tomato sauce and French fries $23; whitebait fritter with salad and pesto $17; maple and fudge pie with yoghurt $4.60
Wine: Reasonably priced
It was the old fella's birthday and time to celebrate, so on a balmy autumn evening we strolled from home to Devonport central and into Zigana, which, rumour had it had changed hands.
Zigana has always been best known for its great coffee and pizzas, but we were
hoping that the change of ownership might have produced some fresh offerings.
The new owner was in residence but, as of our visit at least, the dinner menu was unchanged - however, the blackboard menu had sufficient new tastes for us to decide to stay anyway.
We took a table by the large open window to get the breeze and a rather young waitress greeted us enthusiastically; the old fella got an extra treat when she turned around to reveal, beneath the long black apron, the shortest denim shorts I'd seen for a while.
A very full glass of Vidal's East Coast chardonnay for me, and a Spy Valley equivalent for the old chap came quickly while we made our choices and sat back to watch the main street traffic go by.
My pumpkin soup starter was almost a meal in itself: a large bowl, two thick pieces of toasted brown bread and butter if needed. I found the small slice of lemon on the dish a little puzzling but its mystery was soon revealed. At first taste the soup was bland, even with added condiments. "Try the lemon," my companion suggested and the food went instantly from boring to delicious.
His crostini platter, on the other hand, was enjoyable at once. The tomato wood-baked bread for which Zigana has always been noted went well with the huge dish of olives, tomato wedges and garlic hummus (the slice of ripe rock melon was passed to me). But it was the big wedge of runny, ripe French camembert cheese which received most praise: "Fantastic."
We asked for a break between courses, to allow time for recovery, and ordered more of the same wine while checking out the cafe itself. Inside it is roomy, with high, painted ceilings. The tables are wooden and well spaced in what is plain, uncluttered decor. It also offers outside dining near the roadside among potted trees and ivy.
My main, a seafood basket, duly arrived. It was huge; the deep fried calamari, prawns, fish bites were sitting on a mountain of French fries. Sadly, the quality didn't match the size; the seafood lacked flavour and was overcooked.
However, the old chap crowed over his large whitebait fritter also from the blackboard. The chef hadn't destroyed the delicate flavour with herbs or garlic and he really enjoyed savouring the taste.
The meals had been more than filling but we studied the dessert menu, interestingly brought in from another cafe called Angkor, and shared a small slice of maple and fudge pie served with natural yoghurt. It was a little dried out but sweet and tasty.
We were both delighted that no loud music was played during our meal and found at all times the service was fast and courteous with frequent visits from the maitre d' to ascertain our needs.
With a new owner, Zigana may well have a different name and menu in a few months time, but were I to return before then I would study the food on offer more carefully before ordering.
Ewan McDonald is on holiday, eating his way around Italy.
