KEY POINTS:
If wine seems to be going to your head that bit quicker these days, you may be reassured to note it could have less to do with you and more to do with rising alcohol levels.
For better or worse levels have crept up in recent decades. Nowadays it's not unusual to find wines from countries such as Australia weighing in at over 15 per cent.
As well as the obvious side effect, these wines can lack freshness and drinkability. If they don't have the concentration to carry the alcohol, they can also appear hot and unbalanced.
This situation comes from a variety of factors including improved viticulture. Grapes are now picked far riper, with this longer hang time boosting flavour, while diminishing the green and astringent characters that could be found in our weedy reds of yore. That's no bad thing.
Surveys in Britain indicate drinkers are becoming increasingly jaded with super-sized specimens and are seeking lower alcohol options. Drinkers in New Zealand appear less concerned, but it's a hot topic among winemakers.
Alcohol is an essential component of wine and is responsible for perceptions of weight and fruit sweetness.
In warmer climates and where there are high UV levels, as in New Zealand, a grape's desirable sugar level tends to arrive quite a bit before its flavours are ready. Winemakers have to hold on for these before they pick so sugar continues to build, sometimes leading to an overly alcoholic product.
New Zealand's legacy of unripe reds has also led to some erring on the side of over-ripeness.
Short of dilution, there are a few things that can be done to lower levels, such as reverse osmosis, although few will admit to this winemaking wizardry.
Far better though to get things right in the vineyard in the first place, which thankfully is what an increasing number of winegrowers are trying to do.
There are already alternatives for those looking for something lighter. These range from simple, sweeter wines (in which not all the sugar has been fermented into alcohol), such as Brown Brothers' grapey muscats and the Banrock Station Crimson Cabernet.
However, the ultimate low alcohol wine has to be riesling. Beautifully balanced as low as 8 per cent, it can have you reeling for the right reasons.
Power without strength
1. Light enough for lunch
Loosen Dr L Mosel Riesling 2005 $19.95
Germany makes some of the world's most elegantly light rieslings. Offering amazing value and at a mere 8.5 per cent, Dr L has a soft palate of white peach and honeysuckle, with a sweetness offset by its zippy lemon acidity.
* From Caro's, First Glass.
2. Intense at low per cent
Felton Road Central Otago Riesling 2006 $29
While Felton Road's dry riesling is a wonderful wine at 13 per cent, this version, picked at the same time and left with quite a bit of sweetness, has 2.5 per cent less alcohol but equal intensity. This sweetness is expertly
High alcohol can take its toll on the senses, so here are some refreshing naturally lower alcohol wines.
balanced by a punchy citrus minerality and fleshed out with delicate floral notes and pure peach and mandarin fruit.
* Stockists include La Barrique and First Glass.
3. Fresh Approach
Churton Marlborough Pinot Noir 2005 $35-$40
Churton's Sam Weaver aims to produce pinots with alcohol more in tune with this delicate variety. A mixture of site and vineyard management has resulted in a pinot at just 12.2 per cent that's tangy and savoury, with a bright core of red fruit. It's at the opposite end of the spectrum to some of the over-ripe pinots around.
* Stockists include Glengarry Victoria Park and Liquorland Newmarket.
