KEY POINTS:
GRK. Posip. Vugava. Prc. Bogadnusa. This a language I now understand, thanks to 10 days spent on several islands in the Adriatic. They are names of grape varieties, each of which is indigenous to a single island. And each, in a small and quiet way, is getting along famously. All is not lost in the global struggle against homogeneity in wine.
However, the soft spot I developed for Grk is going to be difficult - almost impossible - to satisfy from this distance. Or anywhere outside Croatia for that matter. "I am the world's largest producer of Grk", Branimir Cebalo informed me at his home town of Lumbarda on the island of Korcula. Branimir's output is 5000 bottles of Grk a year.
What can I tell you about Grk? It is white and gently aromatic, carrying shades of both pinot gris and sauvignon blanc in that regard. In the mouth it doesn't shout, has firm natural acidity, and there is a whisper of something bitter and slightly peppery. It is charming, especially in tandem with seafood, which the Adriatic also does wonderfully well.
The origins of Grk are as enigmatic as its vowel-less name. Did it come with the Greeks who emigrated to Korcula in the 6th century BC? The word itself does mean "Greek" in the local tongue. But it also means "bitter", which as I've mentioned, is one of the grapes inherent characters.
Up until recently, the allure of Grk and other Croatian varieties was masked by oxidation (which results in a brownish, sherry-like wine) and a general lack of winemaking savoir faire. Branimir Cebalo was the first vigneron to turn his back on "old Grk", as it is called today, and employ modern winemaking techniques and a little TLC in the vineyard. As a result, everyone from the local nuns to tourists to overseas buyers is beating a path to his door. His Grk output is sold out several years in advance. There's just not enough Cebalo Grk to go round.
Korcula is not without its New Zealand connections. Many of our Croatian immigrants came from the island, among them the Nobilos, who are from Lumbarda itself. In fact, Nick Nobilo is Branimir's second cousin and their mothers, Zuva and Magdala, were old school friends. Nick toyed with the idea of introducing Grk into New Zealand, but eventually found it unworkable. They can't succeed with Grk in other parts of the island of Korcula, let alone down here in the South Seas. It has shown a reluctance to perform anywhere beyond the sandy soils of Lumbarda.
Recommended
2004 Babich Irongate Chardonnay
Another in a long line of very fine Irongate chardonnays, this wine is all harmony. There is an understated urgency to the palate; stonefruit and date scone flavours are underscored by balanced acidity. Terrific chardonnay. Retails for around $38.
