KEY POINTS:
It was Dom Perignon who discovered the bubbly thing happening in his cellared bottles at the Abbaye de Hautvillers. But there was another, less famous Benedictine monk whose name can also be found on a champagne label. This was the scholarly Dom Ruinart, who spent most of his life writing works with such titles as The History of the Persecution of the Vandals. (Can't say I'm scurrying to find a copy but I do hope he concluded the Vandals deserved everything they got).
Dom Ruinart would no doubt be crushed to know his name has not endured for his labours with the quill, but rather as a result of conversations he had on the subject of champagne.
Dom Ruinart met Dom Perignon during visits to Hautvillers, where he probably tasted Dom Perignon's wine as well. He travelled widely through Europe, observing the growing enthusiasm for champagne.
We know Dom Ruinart discussed the innovative effervescent drink with his brother, whose son in 1729 established what is today the oldest surviving champagne house, Ruinart.
Dom Ruinart is also credited in some quarters with having discovered the extraordinary crayeres. These vast cone-shaped caverns were originally dug out by the Romans for building stone; today they honeycomb the solid chalk upon which the city of Rheims sits. The Maison Ruinart was certainly the first house to exploit these underground labyrinths for champagne maturation, for which they almost seem purpose-built. Today the Ruinart crayere covers more than eight subterranean kilometres, reaches a depth of 38m and is classified as an historic monument.
Ruinart is a small champagne house and most of its output - about 60 per cent - is absorbed by the French market. In France the brand occupies a niche that has been well-nurtured by its owners, the sprawling Louis Vuitton Moet Hennessey luxury-goods empire. "Doctors, architects, other professionals -it is bought in France by people who want quality and authenticity. They are opinion-makers, not followers," says Ruinart's international marketing director Guy de Rivoire.
If I had one word to sum up the Ruinart style it would be chardonnay. The white grape is given pride of place as the dominant player in all Ruinart cuvees. This belief in chardonnay is underpinned by Ruinart's connection to outstanding grand cru and premier cru sites, fruit quality that comes through with an effortless elegance and some remarkable longevity. The 1996 Dom Ruinart, a prestige cuvee made from grand cru chardonnay drawn from different locations, has only just been released and has a bounce and freshness that belies its 11 years.
This grand old name has kept its distance from us, until now. From this month a number of Ruinart champagnes become available in some New Zealand restaurants and fine wine stores. We are blessed.
Recommended
Ruinart Blanc de Blancs
This elegant, complete non-vintage blend of premier cru chardonnay is Ruinarts signature champagne. It is immediately seductive; from its patisserie-laden nose through to the lengthy, refreshing finish. Retails for $110.
