Rating: 7.5/10
Address: 166 Jervois Rd
Phone: (09) 376 5597
Website: vinnies.co.nz
Cuisine: Casual fine dining, contemporary New Zealand
Being a food critic is a mixed bag. I'm always slightly nervous before heading out. I compare it to going to see a stand-up comic. All one hopes for is that the comedian is truly, effortlessly, brilliantly funny to save us both from any awkwardness.
It's the same with critiquing an eatery. I want so much for the experience to be positive so that I can have a decent rave about the joys of eating there. So it was off to Vinnies, one of Auckland's iconic restaurants, with both hopes and fears rolled into two keen diners.
Vinnies has offered casual fine dining for around 20 years. Inside is a formal dining room with the works of contemporary New Zealand artists adorning the walls and an eclectic mix of lampshades and chandeliers throughout.
What struck us immediately was the almost theatrical performance of some of the staff. We were, from the beginning, afforded what I'd consider to be overly familiar service and, heck, I feel like a heel for saying so. I'm often banging on that service needs to be engaging but feigned familiarity can so easily come across as insincere.
But let's get to the food because here's where Vinnies shines. Here's what we selected: four Te Matuku oysters, fresh fig with Serrano ham and ricotta to start for me and the Barry's Bay aged cheddar pannacotta followed by eye fillet for the main for my friend, while I had the Cardrona rabbit.
The oysters were sensational - like the ocean trapped in a crisp shell of batter. My figs were a bit lacklustre with the ricotta too chilled, rendering this already mild tasting fresh cheese almost devoid of flavour.
The aged cheddar pannacotta was the opposite - full of flavour and flair this starter was a highlight. Served with both yellow and purple baby beets this dish was a tremendous example of taking relatively simple ingredients and transforming them into something quite wondrous.
My rabbit main was another example of this. The leg meat had been braised then shredded, mixed with blue cheese and formed into a crumbed, lightly fried rissole of sheer delight. It sat on top of a creamy blend of potato that had been julienned to within an inch of its life and mixed with cream. This had a delightful texture as well as being a deliciously different preparation for potato.
The eye fillet was thick, tender, and perfectly cooked to the diner's orders, but it wasn't the hero on this plate - the vegetables were. Who knew that crushed peas could taste so divine? Even after a few small forkfuls I still couldn't discern what ingredient lifted them to such great heights. Then there were turnips - exquisitely turned and tender. Deep green spinach and potato gratin finished the dish off nicely.
We shared a dessert - the Vinnies' after dinner mint creation. The choc mint icecream, made on the premises, mixed the taste of fresh mint with decent sized flecks of 70 per cent cocoa chocolate from France. Lime marshmallows did a final cleanse of the palate and we were on our way.
Exiting quietly wasn't an option, with both wait staff regaling us with fond farewells and with one final shriek of "do come again girls" ringing in our ears we tumbled out into the night. The impact the front of house can have on an evening cannot be underestimated.
Our waitress and the older of the two male waiters on this night had gushed too much throughout our dinner service and we noticed they did it with everyone. No diner wants to feel talked at or not listened to.
So at the end of it all, I'm left wishing this column was one where the food is rated separately from the service because then I'd be able to award nearly full points for Chef Scott's creations. Unfortunately dining out is a package and in this case the great food could not disguise the fact the service and overall ambience deserved only polite applause.
From the menu: Te Matuku Bay oysters $14 Fresh fig with Serrano ham and ricotta $25, Barry's Bay aged cheddar pannacotta $22, Cardrona rabbit $37, Aged eye fillet $39, Vinnies chocolate after dinner mint $16, Lime marshmallows $6.
Drinks: Glasses of Nautilus, Clos Marguerite pinot noir, Torres Gran Coronas 05.
