It might be time to skip the gel manicure and give your nails a refresh. Photo / 123RF
It might be time to skip the gel manicure and give your nails a refresh. Photo / 123RF
A spike in allergic reactions and concern over UV rays are contributing to gel nail angst.
I still remember the joy of discovering gel manis about 10 years ago. The non-smudging, super-quick drying time and straight out-of-the-salon glamour of nails as glossy as an Alfa Romeo which could last fora couple of weeks was irresistible. I still love them but I do worry about the effect of long-term gel polish and nail health. Should we be taking regular breaks from our gel manis?
There’s certainly been a good deal of gel-nail angst around recently following a rise in allergic reactions. “The main cause of problems with gels recently is because of inadequate ‘curing’ of the gel polish under UV lamps because specific gels are designed to work with specific machines,” nail expert Leighton Denny (who has been awarded an MBE for his services to the British nail industry) tells me.
“If insufficiently set, the chemicals that bond the gel can penetrate the nail producing infections,” Denny continues. “In a nutshell, it’s not the gel itself that can cause problems to your nails, it’s how it’s applied and removed. If it’s applied and removed correctly by an expert, you shouldn’t have any issues. But of course not every nail salon and technician is perfect and inadequate nail prep or too harsh removal – or even worse, picking off the gel yourself – can lead to the nails becoming weaker and thinner.
“If your nail prep and removal isn’t as scrupulous as it should be, a two-week break from gel polish can definitely help refresh and strengthen nails that have been weakened.”
Thea Green, the founder of Nails Inc agrees: “Frequent gel manicures can take a toll on the nail bed, as you’re not giving the nail time to rest and recover from the removal so it’s definitely a good idea to give them a mini break. Glowing, glazed nails are still very much having a moment,’” adds Green, “which is a look that can easily be achieved without gel polish and so it’s a good time to try a break from gel.”
Personally, I’ve been hankering for a break from constant gel polish for a while. As well as the potential damage from removal, as someone usually scrupulous about UV rays, exposure from the lamps started to feel counter-intuitive. And of course there’s also the money-saving aspect of regular manicures compared to gel ones.
During your gel mani mini break, there are steps you can take to restore strength to weakened nails.
“Firstly, if your nails are long it’s a good idea to take the nails down to a shorter length,” advises Samantha Kendrew of Mii Cosmetics. “It’s a bit like having a good trim at the hair salon. Your nails will thank you for it.”
Her second tip is to invest in a good nail oil and smother them in it for the first 24 hours. Keep it in your handbag or on your desk (or wherever you are) and try to keep applying it throughout the day. Even one day of doing this will help nails begin to recover and speed up the recovery process.
A two-week break from gel polish can help refresh and strengthen nails that have been weakened. Photo / 123RF
Next, choose a good treatment base coat, ideally one for weak and damaged nails, lots of them are specifically aimed at post-gel repair so choose one of these and apply two coats. Lastly, acetone-free nail polish remover can be less drying on the nails so it’s a good idea to use this instead of regular nail polish remover if your nails are weaker than normal.
I followed Kendrew’s advice and noticed a difference. To be honest, I thought my post-gel traumatised nails (I’d had gel polish constantly for about four months) may just break or look terrible without the gel, but I was pleasantly surprised at how healthy and strong they looked after two weeks. It’s also been liberating being able to do DIY nail maintenance at home instead of visiting a salon. In fact, I’m so thrilled it’s been a month of gel mani abstinence for me and I don’t plan on returning any time soon.
There have definitely been some hero products, which have made a difference and I couldn’t have done without.
Nails Inc’s Gimme Strength Nail Strengthener is a game changer. It’s part of a new range of products designed for post-gel recovery. As well as strengthening the nails, I love the fact it’s a bit shimmery and is really flattering making the nails look healthy (and a tiny bit “glazed”) with a nod to the current glowing, nude nails trend.
For the initial couple of weeks I also used Leighton Denny’s Nail Illuminator Brightening Treatment. This is also a strengthener and is a brilliant quick fix if you notice your nails have discoloured from the gel polish.
And having saved on professional salon visits, I treated myself to a bottle of the newly formulated Chanel nail varnish in Ballerina – the holy grail of chic neutral nail colours. The brush has even been revamped, making it even easier to apply (it’s a bit wider than before). When doing it myself, I find one layer of Ballerina is my new go-to as it’s more chip resistant than multiple coats. Voila! I have healthier, low-maintenance but still chic, summer nails. Time will tell if I get lured back to the gels this autumn.
