Address: 936 Beach Road
Phone: (09) 473 7870
Website: tidesrestaurant.co.nz
It's almost blink-and-you-miss-it, because there are few other business premises in Waiake to act as distractions. This allows Tides to take full advantage of an unimpeded view of Waiake Beach. On an early summer evening it's a view worth embracing.
And it's a good thing it's there, because inside
Tides there's not a lot to see. Wooden floors, ditto tables and chairs. There is a little marine-related art on the walls, but nothing to stop a conversation.
But we were there for the food. New Zealand bistro in style, it covers the usual bases. There is also the obligatory specials board, from which Bill chose his starter of blue cheese souffle.
It seems that head chef Martin Durbridge has been at Tides since its inception a couple of years ago, and has worked with owners Lynn and Steve Dewar for even longer. His experience shows - a souffle is not an easy thing to cook and get to the table before it collapses, but Durbridge and his uncharacteristically fleet-footed waitress managed. It was an excellent offering - high and light, and not overpoweringly cheesy.
I shared a vegetarian antipasto platter with Annie which, though designed for one, was more than adequate for two. Mozzarella risotto balls (too often neglected) accompanied sun-dried tomatoes, olives, feta, hummus and bruschetta. Nothing untoward or unusual, but a pleasant enough way to begin a meal.
We are not great lamb eaters in our house (not real New Zealanders, then) but Bill was persuaded to try it this evening. Part of the attraction, I suspect, was the accompaniment of garlic potato mash and truffled peas, fancy versions of his favourite vegetables. The lamb, a fillet marinated in olive oil with rosemary and oregano, was perfectly cooked, and as a result was tender and succulent.
Annie's chicken roulade was filled with spinach, pine nuts, feta and capsicum. Together with a tomato and lime glaze, it sounded like several ingredients too many but, surprisingly, it worked well. Annie was particularly taken with the glaze, which she has filed away for further experimentation at home.
I had the duck breast marinated with Asian spices and set on a ginger risotto. It came with a confit duck leg wonton, which was not particularly memorable, but the breast meat was great, well flavoured and with enough texture to give it bite without toughness.
Desserts were not a disappointment either. Annie's creme brulee was a very good example of the dish, and the richness of the creme was cut by a mango coulis lightly touched with lemongrass.
Bill's lemon curd tart with fresh fruit and creme anglaise met with his complete approval, so much so that not even a teaspoonful came my way.
If we lived on the North Shore, we would visit Tides on a regular basis. The locals are very lucky.
Rating out of 10
Food: 8
Service: 7
Value: 7
Ambience: 8
Our meal: $199.20 for two entrees, three mains, two desserts, three beers, including a rather unappetising Budejovacky Budvar of dubious origin, and a bottle of Astrolabe sauvignon blanc.
Wine list: Unusually, a totally local list, all very well priced but nothing out of the ordinary - supermarket stalwarts, mainly. A short beer list.
Verdict: Because the decor is unobtrusive, concentration is focused on the food. Worth crossing the bridge for.
