Where: 417 Manukau Rd, Epsom
Ph: (09) 631 5650
Verdict: Saison deserves support for bringing more fine dining to Epsom.
Jean-Jacques Bourvis is not only an enthusiastic and knowledgeable maitre d', he is also clairvoyant. How do I know this?
Because the second bottle of Clos Marguerite arrived before we had even decided to order it. We would have in time, of course, because it is a very good sauvignon blanc, one of Marlborough's finest, I suggest, but it was a little unexpected.
It seemed churlish not to drink it then, so we did, while we enjoyed the excellent food that Saison presents. This new addition to the Epsom eating strip has been open only since January.
It is sited in what was Soprano's, next door to the Lido Cinema, and Bourvis and owner/chef Scott Denning were in such a rush to get the doors open and the punters in that little appears to have been done to the interior. It is faded art deco in muted colours, with curved ceilings and angular walls, but the ambience is still comforting and comfortable.
Early diners had nabbed the table in the window alcove, but our booth was perfectly adequate. We were still checking out the menu when the first of the evening's surprises arrived - a complimentary amuse-bouche of sweetcorn cream with a coconut foam.
Sweet and fresh, like liquid popcorn. Fresh breads followed, with the best aioli ever, the mayonnaise blended with pink anchovies to produce a salty, garlicky dip that disappeared too quickly. Its companion, a very good basil pesto, went just as fast.
Annie and Merima shared a smoked salmon starter, beautifully presented with caramelised witloof and a lightly whipped citrus-flavoured avocado dressing. George's shellfish tortellini had clams and pipi in a crayfish bisque with leek fondant and just the right amount of dill.
Bill's crispy skinned pork belly was a standout. It came with a distinctive nutmeg and orange puree and ginger reduction, and was the best he's ever had, he said. Decor notwithstanding, it's clear that Denning puts his time and energy into the food, and that's what counts.
The herb-crusted cote de boeuf that Bill and I shared was cooked on the bone, and served at table, with smoky potato and confit garlic. It was rare and tender and delicious.
George went for the herb-rubbed rack of lamb with sweet potato pie and a sweetbread vol au vent. He felt that the lamb may have been intercepted on its voyage to a high-quality restaurant in Paris, so pink and tender was it.
Merima's baked snapper melted in the mouth. It arrived in a green pea jus with mint leaves, which she enjoyed as a nice change to the more usual lemon, and the couscous with sumac lent a welcome sour note. Annie's John Dory was equally as good, with pumpkin gnocchi, shrimp, wakame (a type of seaweed) and ginger. It must have been good, as she was very quiet for quite a long time.
Another amuse-bouche followed, this time a palate-cleansing rosewater and watermelon granita.
We were running out of steam by this time, but Merima is a date fan and couldn't turn down a date creme brulee, with the fruit puree at the bottom of the dish, cracking good brulee and Tahitian vanilla ice cream on the side.
Bill's cold chocolate fondant was equally irresistible. A good maitre d' can make an average meal excellent and an excellent meal superb, and Bourvis did just that.
Saison is very, very good.
Rating out of 10
Food: 9
Service: 9
Value: 8
Ambience: 7
Our meal: $476 for breads, three starters, five mains, vegetable sides, two desserts, wine and beer.
Wine list: Excellent local and exotic offerings, with quite a few reasonably priced.
Verdict: Saison deserves support for bringing more fine dining to Epsom.
