Address: Westhaven Dr, Westhaven Marina
Phone: (09) 378 9890
An important message came from one of my sons in London. A news report says the recession in Britain will be over in 30 days.
I imagine him, like a prisoner in a cell, crossing off days on a calendar. And here, we are told that if we don't rush out and buy houses things will also improve soon.
Business confidence is up, sunny days are ahead and there's a spring in our steps, so maybe people will start going out to dinner again. Many of us continued our irresponsible ways this year and helped keep restaurants afloat, but there were noticeably fewer people in some mid-range places.
It being a Tuesday and Sails in that top-end of the market, my friend and I weren't surprised that we had the dining room almost to ourselves. She was excited about a trip to New York and I was envious, so we had one of those nights of long conversations where the lovely view of harbour lights and boats was barely acknowledged. But the food was certainly diverting, as expected.
Sails isn't cheap. But entrees around $25 are increasingly the norm, and its mains — with the exception of the crayfish — haven't leaped into that $40-plus bracket we are starting to see. Some get perilously close — and with sides they certainly do — but we felt salads and the like were probably going to be untouched anyway.
We were treated to a small, complimentary, creamy seafood bisque — Sails has a habit of starting with such pleasant little surprises — and my entree of the slow-roasted pork shoulder ($23.90) was as soft and delicious as it was beautifully presented. Substantial also, and a world apart from the greasy pork belly offerings that have too often become the norm in other places.
My friend's lightly fried Coromandel scallops with sauces ($26.90) were equally exceptional. When it comes to wines, increasingly I put myself in the hands of companions who know better or a sommelier, and on our wine waiter's recommendation we had a superb bottle of Gisselbrecht pinot gris ($58).
By the time our mains arrived we were in need of something more aligned to our selections, so I was offered a glass of Crater Rim pinot noir ($21) with my duck, and my premium-economy friend had a Peregrine riesling ($11.50) with her lamb. Both were spot-on selections.
I have increasingly gone for duck in the better restaurants as their slow cooking — this was twice roasted — brings out the best of the rich flavours. And with bok choy, sweet potato blini and pickled mandarin jus ($39.90) this was among the best I've had.
My friend's lamb ($39.90) was its equal, and so generous some went untouched — the sort of thing you regret the next day. We finished with cheese, coffee and port ... by which time we'd established New York deserved my friend, and she it. It was a grand night of fine food and warm ambience. So when you feel the recession is over — 30 days? — or you may have a special occasion, then treat yourself to dinner and harbour lights.
Sails won't disappoint.
Rating out of 10
Food: 9
Service: 8
Value: 8
Ambience: 8
Our meal: $273 for bread, two entrees, two mains, one bottle of wine, two glasses of wine, coffee, cheese for two, a glass of port.
Wine list: Extensive, and an intelligent sommelier to guide you.
Verdict: Refined and fine dining at one of Auckland's most consistent and best restaurants.
