Is your makeup making you break out? What to know about comedogenic ingredients

Beauty editor·NZ Herald·

15 Mar, 2025 05:00 PM5 mins to read

Comedogenic - or pore-clogging - ingredients in your makeup and skincare can lead to breakouts and dull skin. Photo / Getty Images

If clogged pores are getting you down, it may be time to switch up your makeup. Lucy Slight explains why.

You wake up one morning, glance in the mirror, and there it is. A fresh breakout. A constellation of tiny, angry bumps that seem to have formed overnight, and now, instead of focusing on the day ahead, you’re mentally cycling through every product you’ve used in the past 48 hours. The expensive foundation, the dewy primer that promised an ethereal glow … was one of them the culprit?

The answer, quite possibly, is yes. Because lurking in the depths of that flawless-finish foundation or skin-smoothing primer might be comedogenic ingredients; ingredients that, despite their best intentions, clog pores and contribute to breakouts.

Rohan Widdison, CEO of New Laboratories, a company that develops and manufactures cosmetics, knows a thing or two about the delicate balance between makeup and skin health.

“Comedogenic ingredients tend to clog the pores which then lead to the formation of blackheads and whiteheads,” he explains. “When there’s an excess of pore-clogging ingredients, acne-causing bacteria tend to thrive. The skin then becomes congested, oily, and prone to breakouts, irritation, and uneven texture.”

In other words, what looks good on the surface could be wreaking havoc underneath.

Comedogenic ingredients to watch out for

The list of potential offenders is, unfortunately, long. “Any heavy oil has the potential to clog pores and disrupt the skin’s delicate oil balance,” says Widdison.

The suspects are unsuspecting too – some of the most hydrating, glow-enhancing ingredients out there are the very ones that can cause trouble, such as coconut oil, flaxseed oil and aloe butter. Being fatty acids, they are more likely to cause blackheads and whiteheads which result from clogged pores.

“There’s also mineral oil, lanolin and algae extract. Avoid these ingredients if your skin is particularly acne-prone,” adds Widdison.

If you’re a fan of using oils, there are a number of accessible non-comedogenic options you can try, including jojoba oil, sweet almond oil, rosehip oil, hemp oil and argan oil.

Who’s most at risk?

Not all skin is created equal, and some types will throw a full-scale rebellion in the presence of comedogenic ingredients, while others barely bat an eyelid. “Skin that is mature, acne-prone, oily, sensitive, or combination are generally more sensitive to comedogenic ingredients as their pores are susceptible to becoming clogged,” says Widdison.

On the flip side, those with dry skin might actually benefit from these richer, more occlusive formulations, though that doesn’t mean they’re off the hook entirely. “Irritation or dullness can occur with long-term use due to the heaviness of comedogenic formulations,” he warns.

The search for non-comedogenic makeup

Here’s where things get tricky. You want makeup that won’t clog your pores, but how do you even begin to navigate ingredient lists that read like a chemistry textbook?

“Always look for the label ‘non-comedogenic’,” advises Widdison. “Check ingredients for known offenders lurking in products from moisturisers to foundations and primers. Patch test the new product to see how your skin reacts and, if in doubt, opt for lighter formulations like gels and water-based creams.”

And if you’re wondering whether the beauty industry is addressing this problem, the answer is yes, slowly but surely. “Modern products are getting very good at mimicking the way the skin functions, working with the skin barrier to protect and enhance its appearance rather than interfere with its natural processes,” says Widdison.

Recent innovations have led to breathable, lightweight formulas that double as skincare, blending seamlessly into your routine without leaving a trail of breakouts in their wake.

“Look for oil-free and water-based formulas with ingredients like hyaluronic acid, niacinamide and squalane, which are hydrating without clogging pores,” he suggests.

Myths and misconceptions

If only avoiding breakouts was as simple as swearing off a few ingredients. But of course, skin is more complicated than that. “Consumers shouldn’t assume that just because an ingredient is pore-clogging for one person, it will be for them as well,” says Widdison. “Neither should they assume that natural or organic ingredients equal non-comedogenic. Coconut oil and cocoa butter are as natural as it gets but can still clog pores.”

And here’s the kicker: “A product being non-comedogenic doesn’t guarantee acne-free skin,” he adds. “Avoiding these ingredients can help prevent acne from getting worse, but it doesn’t mean your skin will naturally become clearer.” Because, as we all know, skin doesn’t operate in isolation. Lifestyle, diet, hormones and skincare routines all play their part in the quest for clear skin.

So where does this leave us? Perhaps right back where we started: staring at our reflection, wondering what’s to blame. But when armed with the knowledge, we can make better choices or at least become more aware of which product might be contributing to breakouts, because a flawless finish for a big night out shouldn’t come at the cost of clear skin in the morning.