Address: 329a State Highway 16
Phone: (09) 412 2001
Website: ribier.co.nz
Oh the joy when my fine doctor, William Fergusson, told me there was a new French restaurant in Kumeu.
"And it's excellent," he said earnestly. "You must try it."
A couple of weeks later we pulled up at Ribier. And William was right. After around four months, Ribier was not even half full but, from first glance at the innovative menu and wine list, we were hooked. Both echoed Europe and the market gardens, seas and vineyards that surround Kumeu. Indeed, Ribier's house white is Kumeu River chardonnay.
But more was in store. First we found that chef and owner Eugene Sokolovski is from the former Russian state of Modolva but has spent much of his working life in Italy and France.
He makes his own pasta fresh every day. This information led me to make my only mistake of the night when I ordered the snapper-filled tortelli entree, which turned out pretty on the plate but was a little chewy and sadly tasteless. It could have done with a sauce. Brian was similarly unimpressed with his sweetbreads, which were mushy compared with those he'd tried elsewhere.
On the other hand, Suzanne was thrilled with her scallop curry and Eugene even more excited by his large slice of vegetable terrine which was crammed with tenderly sauteed capsicums, spinach and feta.
It's hard to say who was the most impressed with their main. Brian was in raptures about the seafood lasagne which was thick with prawns, mussels, squid and satisfying chunks of firm white fish in a herbed, passata-style tomato sauce.
And this time the homemade pasta was perfect - moist and tender. Brian offered only a small sample.
My cured duck breast was even better. The fatty skin was crisp while the flesh was rare without showing any sign of blood. Rather than smoky, it tasted sweet and mildly gamey with just a hint of citrus. It was served on a bed of tender, shelled broad beans, capsicums and courgettes, swimming in a buttery sauce. Sensational.
Eugene loved his blue nose market fish with a black truffle risotto, beetroot purée and brussel sprouts peeled and carved into little boats. Again the fish was perfectly cooked.
Meanwhile Suzanne munched happily through her large serving of lamb rump on pureed cauliflower with a delicious ewe's cheese croquette.
Faced with the dessert menu, I threw my dairy-free diet to the wind and had one of the best, and biggest, creme brulees I've ever tasted, while Brian rocketed through his massive chocolate marquise and Suzanne and Eugene fought over the halva ravioli and icecream selection.
While we didn't find the servings small, our friends Richard and Seng, who were at another table, felt their meals could have been bigger. To be fair, the prices at Ribier are not all that far behind fine dining restaurants in town. The blue nose was $33 and my duck was $29. But then chef Eugene had turned that breast lovingly in his secret marinade for 48 hours before searing it furiously in a pan.
The other upside to Ribier is that it's BYO - and next door to Kumeu's fabulous Wine Circle wine shop.
Rating out of 10
Food: 8
Service: 8
Value: 7
Ambience: 6
Our meal: $347 for four entrees, main courses, desserts, plus a big bowl of vegetables, one beer, five glasses of wine and one carafe of house Kumeu River chardonnay.
Wine list: Well thought-out and interesting with plenty of local offerings. Also BYO.
Verdict: Ribier is an exciting, fine dining option in a country town awash with vineyard cafes, pizza places and curry houses. Our meals were truly memorable, and if we could afford it we'd be there every week. Recommended.
