In the pantry

Chef Anna Hansen. Photo / Janna Dixon

If chef Anna Hansen has her way the modern home pantry will be an entirely more spicy, adventurous affair. And, given her rising profile, there's a good chance Hansen will get her way.

The past year has been a landmark one for the London-based chef. Her restaurant, The Modern Pantry, opened to rave reviews and has quickly become a favourite among London diners. Meanwhile, Hansen herself has been named as one of the world's top 100 emerging chefs in the book Coco (Phaidon, $85) - the list was compiled by 10 of the world's best chefs including Ferran Adria, Gordon Ramsay and Fergus Henderson.

"It's pretty cool to be in there. Some of the chefs in the book are pretty amazing."

It was Henderson who nominated Hansen for the list, appropriately enough, as it was Henderson who taught Hansen to cook. "I was 22, a bit of a late starter. But once I started it was the love of my life." Though Henderson was not a fan of the fusion cuisine Hansen has since made her own. "Fergus does exactly the opposite of fusion. He does really good, simple food. There's a whole range of ingredients you're not allowed to use with his style of cooking. But it's a really good way to learn about food.

"You really get to understand those basics and how to operate in a narrow spectrum of food."

Then, though, she met fellow Kiwi Peter Gordon - with whom she opened London's The Providores in 2001 - and discovered fusion. She took to it like the proverbial duck to water, though these days she describes the fusion style of mixing and matching ingredients from all over the world simply as modern cooking.

"Everybody does it now. Fusion is about putting together unusual combinations of ingredients, but I don't think I do anything extraordinary in what I'm actually producing - it's more about flavour combinations."

It makes it a natural fit for people cooking at home, and Hansen would love it if home cooks were a little more daring. "You only really need to understand a few basic principles and have a good store cupboard to be a little more adventurous at home."

Which brings us back to the modern pantry. It's the name of Hansen's restaurant, but also a description of her wider food philosophy - making the best use of everything available to modern cooks. It's also the name of Hansen's latest project - a cookbook due in early 2011.

"It's all about what I think should be in the modern pantry. Things we've heard of - like cassava, or seaweeds - but might only know one, if that, way of using them. So in the book I'll list say 25 staples and have at least three or four recipes for each of them.

"Take tahine for example. Most people wouldn't have a clue what to do with it. Yet it's this delicate condiment that can be whipped into yoghurt or used to marinate lamb ... you'd be surprised what you can do with it."

Her other home-pantry makeover goal is to get people to expand their spice racks. "I'm constantly amazed at the lack of spices in people's kitchens. In the restaurant we have about 30 staple spices that I can't live without.

"Star anise for example - people know what that is but wouldn't think to throw it in a stew, or grind it up and put it in a cake, or use it in a poaching liquor."

Her restaurant staff have heard that spiel before. "Yes, they're always laughing at me: `Anna, is there star anise in this?'." But, you know, it's just a great flavour."

With the book under way and The Modern Pantry a success, despite opening in August 2008, "on the eve of absolute financial chaos", Hansen has entertained thoughts of home.

"Yeah I would love to open a restaurant in New Zealand. I think what I'm doing in London would work really well here. But I better get the book done first!"

* www.themodernpantry.co.uk