Herald rating: * * * * 1/2
Address: 70 Jervois Road
Phone: (09) 376 2049
Website: jervoissteakhouse.co.nz
Open: Dinner 7 days, lunch Wed-Fri
Cuisine: Carnivore
Conspicuous consumption. We're taking a break from doom and gloom. When did you last feel like that? Oh. Just last October, huh?
So come along for the ride. That's what five of us did last week, and I worked out afterwards that we broke only four of the seven deadly sins on the way. But we also committed at least three of the virtues. All things considered, we came out fairly even.
We were five this night: Paul, my cousin, and I, had realised we lived three streets from one another. He'd met Jude but his wife, Robyn, hadn't. And Jude's son, Sam, was in town briefly, so we decided to meet and eat. Since we live three streets from one another we met on the other side of town, at Jervois Steak House. Because three of us - a voting majority - were and are boys. Because three of us - the same three, surprisingly - like reds.
Because it was that first cold snap. Waiter, put another log on the fireplace...
Jervois opened in a chargrill of publicity a couple of years ago. It had all the ingredients - Simon Gault plus the first $100 main in the country, Japanese Wagyu beef. It was the place to be seen, or at least have your photo taken for the funny pages in the Sunday papers.
Jervois embodies Gault's philosophy of food: prime ingredients from artisan producers, straightforward cooking, respect for the diner. You choose your favoured variety of steak (unless you crave the signature prime rib: locals order it the day before they turn up, it cooks for the best part of 24 hours in Chicago-style ovens, ask for it on the night and you're likely out of luck), then you create the rest of your meal. Choose sauces, potatoes, condiments, the green bits on the side of your plate.
You won't find culinary adventure, daring recipes, gastronomic innovations here. That is not the point of the steakery.
For us, the smash hits were Sam's entree, steamed Alaskan red king crab legs, a revelation for Kiwi palates since Gault began importing them a couple of years back. Robyn's calamari schnitzel was a close second.
My Angus rump - sorry, the beast's rump - was about the size of Australia, seared on the outside, pink on the inner, cooked to the micro-second asked for. The steak not Australia. Everyone ordered different cuts, we swapped slices: the same could be said for each.
Jude asked for pork, sweetest and most tender of the mains. Before you get on your high pig, this is free-range (everything here is).
Accept you will pay more for free-range meat. Since opening, Jervois has lowered prices $2-$4 a main but you will still fork out $34-ish for a creature that has wandered amongst daisies and heather. You will also, however, taste the difference.
We turned over the wine choices to the staff, and a very well-trained and informed staff he was too. From a list that stretches from here to the nether reaches of the Rhone, we were suggested Central Otago reds. The women favoured Alsatian gewurz.
Desserts are not Jervois' strongest suit, but they're not really the point.
Seven deadly sins? We'd have to put our hands up for Gluttony, and Sloth, and Envy, and Lust (it doesn't mean that).
On the other side, Generosity, and Love, and Kindness ... perhaps not Self-Control and Temperance. All things re-considered, Paul and I thought we did pretty well, for two cousins whose uncle was a Franciscan Father. But he liked his reds, and a steak, too.
From a menu: Steak tartare, white truffle oil, parmigiano $23.50; Wagyu beef $100 minimum; Chocolate pudding, prune & cinnamon balsamic ice cream $14.50.
Vegetarian: See "Cuisine" above.
Wine list: One of the best.
