Grooming: Ahead of the pack

This style from Servilles shows a contemporary cut with shorter layers around the neck and increasing in length towards the face, in an ashen brown shade. Photo / Supplied

One of the few upsides of an economic downturn is that everyone smartens up - after all it might be the difference between securing a job or facing a rather more down-at-heel future.

Good grooming needn't cost the earth, it just takes a little time and self-discipline. If admonitions to shine your shoes, have a shave and get a haircut sound too much like a lecture from your parents, then focus on the positive spin-offs of looking slicker. Making an effort with your appearance isn't just a gay or metrosexual thing, think of the enduring allure of old-style Hollywood stars, wildboy rockers and the dapper corporate type. They all have a self-assurance that attracts attention. By taking a deliberate approach to their appearance they look appealingly comfortable within their skins.

Appropriate dress for your job may be overalls or an apron rather than a suit, but there's no need to let the side down. Stay sharp, so when you do head out on the town, you won't fade into the background.

We've asked around Auckland for some ideas on how the city's smartest pull it together. From the latest hair trends to great places to get groomed and how you can get a little extra help pulling your look together, read on.

Hair here

Take your cue from iconic rock looks and subverted schoolboys for the latest and most wearable hair styles. From the influence of a young Mick Jagger, to the lopsided fringes of the Franz Ferdinand lads and the more dishevelled charm of bands such as the All American Rejects, these looks showed up on the runways at Gucci, Burberry, Prada and more. The secret is in their versatility.

Paul Serville, founder of Servilles salons, says longer cuts are being combed back into a relaxed quiff. Servilles showed the trend in its recent winter collection and says men shouldn't shy away from getting advice on the right products to maintain a style. Texturising pastes or a light styling cream give a lived-in look and can be added before hair is left to dry naturally. Once dry, shake hair lightly to separate and maybe add more product.

"A shorter look right now is with longer lengths on top and a fringe, but shorter on the sides, like on the band Franz Ferdinand. This a great versatile look for guys who need to style it down during the week for work but can mess it up for the weekend," says Serville. Styling could stretch to using straightening irons to disconnect the top and the sides and back or using a paste or gel for a scrunched texture.

Men, says Serville, are enjoying hair treatments (known as rituals in the industry) "as much, if not more, than the women". As to dye: "We are doing a lot of L'Oreal Homme colour for men, it's a five-minute service, a new technology where instead of covering the greys, it blends them, taking away the harsh silver look to give hair a more natural look."

Men only

Not all men enjoy the full salon treatment, and to cater for them there's been a bit of resurgence in the barber shop so ask around for recommendations. At the top end of the market, Serville started a few barbers of his own, but franchisees watered the concept down by introducing female stylists so he's cut back and now only the Smales Farm, Takapuna, barber remains. The guy-friendly formula has been continued elsewhere, with the former

Servilles in Shortland St, continuing to screen Sky Sport and Ati's Men's Hairdressing also offering cut-throat razor shaves (priced at $90).

Men's Works Grooming Lounge in Lorne St is a popular port of call for blokes who like sport on their individual screens and music on the salon speakers. The image is urban sophisticate rather than bar-room jock. Out back, there's a discreet treatment room, where manicures, facials, waxes etc can be had.

Stripped bare

Keeping enough hair on the head is one thing, but dealing with hair in places it's not wanted is another trick altogether. Beauty clinics report a huge increase in the number of men coming in for waxing in recent years, as the bare-chested look crosses over. Sports stars have done much to pave the way, think Daniel Carter in his Jockeys and any number of performance athletes who wax for comfort as much as appearance.

The Bro-zillian may be a step too far for most, but there's no need to put up with hairy backs or the strange growth of nostril, ear or brow hair that occurs with age.

Specialist salon, Off wax and brow bar in Newmarket is a first-rate outlet that can deal with the lot. We sent along a hirsute chap to have his brows shaped and also tried out a little nostril defoliation. The latter involved having a couple of orange-sticks with warm wax on their ends inserted into the tip of the nostril, after a minute or two of sitting there with what looked like chopsticks protruding, they were given a quick twist and hey presto, no hair.

A brow shape ($22) can make a real difference to a face, although our guinea pig was mostly relieved at how subtle his was. I thought it better defined his eyes by reducing the focus on the brows and made him look more sophisticated. Sitting in a barber chair, he had his very thick dark brows shaped down along the top (men aren't given the arch underneath that women favour). An individually tailored approach sees a number of techniques (including waxing, tweezing, debulking and snapping) used to thin male brows or turn a monobrow into two, all the while maintaining a natural look.

Face facts

If you're serious about skincare, then get a skin analysis so you know what your skin type is and what products are best for its care. Dermalogica on the Shore at Westfield Mall, Albany, has a great free 10-minute Face Mapping service to this end. Add on an individually prescribed MicroZone treatment ($40 for 20 minutes) and this is an ideal half-hour introduction to the world of treatments, without stranding you in a girly environment.

Your skin is inspected and then while you sit back in a comfy chair out of public view, it's treated to a good cleanse and, depending on your needs, anything from blackhead removal, to exfoliation to extra hydration for the eye area, before you're sent on your way well moisturised and sun-blocked. You get a written skin analysis and product recommendation, but there's no obligation to buy, though Dermalogica's shave products have a devoted following.

My guinea pig enjoyed his first taste of a mini-facial and said his skin felt more toned and looked clearer afterward.

For men who are already familiar with skin treatments, a spa is an enticing rather than a scary place, offering rare "me" time. Frequent long-haul fliers are apt to check-in to their hotel spas for a post-flight massage and facial to help relax and rehydrate. Couple treatments, where you and a partner are both massaged in the same room are a nice experience.

Check out the new Chuan Spa at the Langham Hotel for Auckland's newest luxury experience.

DIY grooming

A good basic at-home skincare regime of cleansing, shave care and moisturising with use of sunblock should be a given, and you can add on extra products such as an eye cream or refining masks.

Man makeup: This is not much in evidence in marketing, but it's not uncommon for cosmetic consultants to help men find a subtle face base within women's ranges to even out their complexions for a healthy natural glow. A few men's ranges include tinted moisturisers or self-tanning products. (If applying self-tan exfoliate and moisturise first to guard against a blotchy application).

Brush-on mineral makeup, used in broadcasting for its barely there, natural looking coverage, is easily obtainable via female supermarket ranges such as Maybelline and L'Oreal. Concealer is another trick of the trade, with Yves St Laurent one of the few to have a men's version with its under-eye brightening Magic Touch pen.

Brow and lash tints in salon are a way of defining these areas, without the daily drag of applying makeup. But that's not just for K Rd queens as All Black Ma'a Nonu and Top Model's Colin Mathura-Jeffree show. If you want to experiment with makeup, ask your BFF or try fashion forward ranges like M.A.C where you're most likely to feel welcome.

Extra help

Spas and salons such as the Forme and About Face groups welcome male clients, stock specialist skincare ranges and say men are adding advanced skin rejuvenation and laser treatments to their waxing, facial and manicure appointments. Leanne Dore, owner of The Beauty Connection on Broadway, Newmarket, is also finding men moving on from regular maintenance to anti-ageing treatments. "Men are really embracing the science of having treatments." This includes light therapy and lasers, used to treat scarring and veins and remove hair.

Big appearance medicine clinics, the Skin Institute and Caci, report a similar upsurge.

The Skin Institute's Sally Ellison, says: "We find IPL (Intense Pulse light) for skin rejuvenation and hair reduction are very popular."

Laser hair removal works best on dark hair and pale skin and can permanently nix 80 per cent or more of hair after around six treatments. Popular areas include chest, back, neck, face, nose and ears with costs depending on area.

"IPL is fantastic for reducing brown pigmentation, rosacea, flushing, visible red vessels, birthmarks, while also boosting collagen within the skin." To achieve good colour correction you will need 2-3 treatments, one month apart. Costs vary from $300 plus a treatment.

Botox is used by men to rejuvenate their look, with popular areas being the frown, forehead and crows feet. Cost vary, but range from $180 to $360 per area.

Caci is doing more work with botox and fillers on men from all walks of life. Salesmen are signing up to maintain a youthful edge in a competitive market.