Herald on Sunday rating: 4 1/2 out of 5
Address: Shed 22, Princes Wharf
Phone: (09) 309 9866
Website: eurobar.co.nz
A couple of years ago, Euro's executive chef Simon Gault took out a full-page advertisement in the Herald on Sunday, offering a recipe for "Metro Food Critic Testicles" as a protest against the glossy monthly leaving the restaurant off its list of Auckland's 50 best.
What seemed like a stoush
was a game that both magazine and restaurant were winning. In leaving Euro off the list, Metro's editor knew he would cause at least a small furore (and perhaps boost sales of a magazine whose circulation is close to the margin of error); and in yelping, Gault knew he'd get plenty of mileage, since the public likes nothing so much as seeing someone stick it to a journalist.
Still, Euro has been a reliable presence on Princes Wharf for more than a decade, and a recent refit made it a good place to draw the curtain on another year of variable eating.
The last time I was there, I was somewhat miffed at being cut dead by the maitre d' when he spied, over my shoulder, someone more important (which I think meant richer) - not a difficult task, I grant you, but annoying just the same. This time, by contrast, the welcome was warm and relaxed, without being offhand or familiar.
The handsome expansion has extended the bar area, which was Friday-night busy when we arrived. I asked whether we could have a quieter spot and we were quickly shown to another table. Good start.
And things just got better. The service is as crisp as the waitstaff's ankle-length aprons, although I do find it disconcerting when they take the bottle of whatever you're drinking away and hide it somewhere until they think you're ready for more. No doubt it's part of a notion of table aesthetics; I just want my water back.
But that's the only complaint you'll hear from me, because the food was terrific. My habit of ordering Caesar salad is, as Samuel Johnson said of second marriages, the triumph of hope over experience, but Euro's version made me almost weep with pleasure: the creamy but tangy dressing; crispy bacon; crunchy croutons; a single fat Lolin anchovy lolling (sorry) on top, and an egg yolk, lightly baked I think, in its own oiled ramekin.
The jamon Iberico - that prince of Spanish hams that makes prosciutto seem bland - was served in cardboard-thick slices on fabulously oily toast and the Professor was enraptured by a tuna tataki (more of a thick carpaccio, really) served with apple, tomato and pickled cucumber.
The accompaniments were one of several approaches on offer, which is an intelligent touch, I think. The fish of the day likewise comes with a choice of modes: Italian bread salad; risotto; creole flavours; or spinach and capers. I chose the heart-smart last of these for my heartbreakingly moist skin-on snapper, though the presence of caviar butter on the side of the plate almost derailed my intentions.
The Professor fancied that the roasted beetroot salad (with celery and walnut, like Basil Fawlty's nemesis Waldorf) was too much beetroot and not enough salad, but I note that its plainness didn't dissuade her from finishing it promptly. Had we had room for dessert, I have no doubt it would have been superb.
If there are 49 restaurants better than this in town, I have a truly excellent year ahead.
But in the meantime, Euro will do just nicely, thanks.
Ambience: Busy
Vegetarians: Two pastas, one main
Watch out for: The refit
Bottom line: Still at the top of its game
THE BILL
$176 for two
Caesar salad: $19.50
Iberico plate: $30.00
Tuna tataki: $18.50
Beet salad: $16.50
Snapper: $36
Side: $7
Wine (three glasses): $39
Water: $9.50