KEY POINTS:
We tend to overlook our hands, until they show signs of neglect. Silly really, they're so visible, and skin on the back of the hands is among the first to show the signs of ageing. Well-kept hands and nails also create a good first impression. Nothing is more off-putting than grubby, scaly paws or chewed nails and picked quicks, so it pays to keep yours looking good.
Hand care needn't be expensive, all it takes is regular nail cutting and filing, mositurising, buffing if you can be bothered, and wearing gloves for washing up and gardening. A good diet with plenty of protein, iron and omega-3 fats will help keep nails strong. You can make an overnight hand masque by rubbing on avocado or light olive oil and going to bed wearing cotton gloves.
A professional manicure can work wonders, but learning the basics is simple. I've become a fan of glass files, they outlast emery boards and are good for smoothing off even the finest of knicked edges.
Finish your mini-mani with a lick of natural-looking polish. For trickier effects such as the French manicure, or a fashionable darker shade, it may pay to head to a good nail bar for a paint job.
If you're concerned about chemicals - and the concentrations in nail products are often higher than in other cosmetics - then check the content of nail polish and removers and be particularly wary about the adhesives and composition of some fake nail applications.
The Green Beauty Bible advises that three ingredients to watch for are formaldehyde (it may be carcinogenic), toluene (a neurotoxin, which if used, should be applied in ventilated conditions lest it make you dizzy) and dibutyl-phthalate (DBP). Phthalates (also found in hair spray) have been voluntarily withdrawn from most leading US nail products and are now banned in Europe because of concerns that they accumulate in fat cells and could pose health risks. Companies are also removing the other ingredients, but nail products, dealing as they do in solvents, plasticisers and concentrated colours, are never going to be an environmentalist's best friend.
You don't need to swear off TLC on your nails, just don't go round sniffing the stuff you put on them too much.
1 Revitanail Nail Strengthener $24.90
A well-regarded product in a good-sized bottle that is used in week-long courses. Dehydrated nails are those most likely to suffer brittleness and splitting. This dryness can be caused by too much exposure to water and, sadly, nail care products, including harsh polish removers, so it's a good idea to give your nails a rest from everything from time to time. A friend with flaky nails is a big fan of this strengthener which is recommended for use with the range's cuticle oil and nice hand and nail cream. Contains formaldehyde and toluene.
(From leading pharmacies and department stores.)
2 O.P.I Avoplex Cuticle Oil to Go $22.95
This little vial of brush-on oil is easy to tote about and if you're troubled by drying cuticles it's worth using frequently to condition them. It softened my rough edges. I also rate OPI's touch up felt-tip pens which remove stray polish from cuticles to give a crisp, professional edge.
3 Dr LeWinn's Hand and Nail Cream SPF15 $31.50
Hand creams are worth a column of their own because finding one that moisturises, sinks in, smells good and isn't greasy is a bit of a quest, but we've included this cream in our hand care selection as an example that fits the bill, plus it contains sunscreen to ward off age spots. It's not easy getting into the daily habit of extending block on to your hands, but it's worth the effort. Compare the skin tone on the back of your left and right hands if you spend a lot of time driving to see the effect inadvertent sun exposure can have.
(Dr LeWinn's products from leading pharmacies and department stores.)
4 Dr LeWinn's Revitalising Hand Polish $39.90
A gentle sea salt exfoliator with moisturising macadamia oil. Smells nicely citrusy. It rubs on and rinses off, leaving your skin feeling smoother. Recommended if you don't mind DIY massage, instead of salon service.
5 Essie White Bright Nail Pen $37.80
Designed to brighten your nails and work against the yellowing effect that using too much polish, especially dark shades, can cause, this pen is easy to use and fast-drying. Paint on a coat to unpolished nails and they'll get a little glow. It's not a bleach so won't dry out the nails.
(Essie from specialist salons, including Forme.)
6 O.P.I Start to Finish $34.50
A base coat, top coat and nail strengthener in one, this product from the specialist North American company saves bottle space in your cupboard. A base coat prevents staining and yellowing of the natural nail colour, strengtheners bond the surface and lock in moisture to harden the nail, and a top coat fixes colour with a high-shine finish that should deter chipping. This product has the advantage of drying fast, and it's formaldehyde free.
(O.P.I from selected salons, Life pharmacies and Smith & Caughey. Ph 0800 144-562 for your nearest stockist.)
Hands up
If your hands need some extra help, then appearance medicine specialists offer two main treatments, IPL and injectables. These treatments are most popular with women 40-plus who are noticing the effects of skin ageing.
A single laser treatment can target age spots and uneven pigmentation, though these will reoccur over time, especially in hands exposed to too much sun.
The other, newer treatment is to use fillers in hands starting to look sinewy as skin loses volume and tendons and veins become more prominent - the claw effect.
The Skin Institute's cosmetic nurse leader Sally Ellison explains that a numbing cream is applied to the backs of hands and then hyaluronic acid filler is injected to plump and rejuvenate the skin. The effect of dermal filler treatments lasts eight months or more.
