Address: 83 Symonds St
Ph: (09) 300 2885
Keeping up with the changes in names of Auckland hotels has been something of a challenge but some things remain the same.
The Langham (formerly the Sheraton) consistently had one of the better examples of that threatened species, the hotel fine dining room. Now it has decided to transform what was once Partingtons into Barolo, a restaurant which lots of flowery prose in the menu declares to be inspired by the food of Piedmont.
It's something of a mystery why, when New Zealand constantly sells itself on its own wonderful produce, flagship hotels choose to offer our visitors somebody else's regional cuisine. But I'm sure they know what they are doing.
Anyway, having been disappointed rather too often by some of our self-styled Italian restaurants, it was good to discover that the food here almost lived up to the billing.
We decided, for gluttony avoidance and economic reasons, not to work our way through five courses in the true Italian style - so I passed on the antipasti.
The Piedmontese bagna cauda warm sauce of garlic, anchovies and olive oil with cream was tempting but I can live without crudites.
So it was into the pasta where the agnolotti stuffed with marinated beef and herbs with sage and butter was simply, and that's the right adjective, delicious.
Our other first taste was - and here I succumb to my delight in Italian names - the asparagi, uovo in camicia e formaggio fresco di capra al tartufo. This was shaved sauteed asparagus with a perfectly poached soft egg and truffle oil infused soft goats cheese, and it was as good as it sounded.
Avoiding the temptation to give the full title to the dish I will just say my main course was of baked swordfish stuffed with breadcrumbs, capers and olives on sauteed artichokes with a very gutsy tomato, pinenut and caper sauce.
A similarly flavourful ratatouille sat alongside a meltingly tender sage-crusted rack of lamb for our other main.
The dessert menu is short and I went for the cheese option where one has the choice of three of Barolo's Italian varieties. My fondness for gorgonzola has been mentioned here before and this was a pleasant example.
The semi-soft caciotta tartufo truffle was good but the pecorini fogli di noci was the stand-out. We just don't do a hard cheese in New Zealand remotely like it.
From the dessert list, the cremino delle Langhe alla menta e sfoglie di cioccolato amaro stood out, and not just because of its euphony. The pannacotta was softly textured with a fresh mint taste offset by the classic contrast of dark chocolate.
Although the wine list does offer New Zealand wines, it would have seemed perverse not to go for Italian examples, although the eponymous Barolos which started at $155 a bottle and hit a mighty $899 were off our price list. The efficient and charming attendant suggested more modest choices including an unlisted and good pinot grigio, so different in style from our treatment of pinot gris, and a fine Giuseppe Cortese Langhe 2007 nebbiolo.
The surroundings are much as before, comfortable and very spacious - so much so that several couples were opting to sit side by side rather than gaze across large spans of gleaming white cloth - and it rather lacks that vivid Italian atmosphere.
The place needs to be comfortable, for although the sales pitch spells out peasant virtues, the prices tend to the aristocratic.
But for a special occasion, when you want to feel pampered, it's well worth considering.
Rating out of 10
Food: 8
Service: 8
Value: 7
Ambience: 7
Our meal: $209 for two entrees, two mains and two desserts and four glasses of wine.
Wine list: Very good Italian selection, as expected, with local options.
Verdict: Good food, not over complicated and allowing the ingredients to speak for themselves. Special occasion atmosphere.
